Our table at Le Castellas awaits, but one of us got there first and left his water bottle.

That's me, third from the right, with members of our press group visiting the South of France. 

One of the best meals of my recent trip was enjoyed at Le Castellas, which enjoys two Michelin stars for both its 20-room hotel and its dining, which is overseen by Chef Jerome Nutile.



La Castellas is in the cobblestone village of Collias between Nimes and Avignon. Its perfectly restored building originated in the 1700s and retain all the charming details of another time, along with the conveniences, such as air conditioning, that people expect  in the 21st century.

I was served this wondrous dish of truffle napped asparagus. Who said a diabetic must be deprived?

Because I am a diabetic who carefully controls by consumption of carbohydrates, the kitchen was advised of this when our reservation was made. Our press group was escorted to the lush terrace, where an ancient wisteria spread its shade and water from fountains splashed in the background.

My amuse bouche.

An amuse bouche, served on a tiny cutting board for each of us, included a tiny pork fritter with tartar sauce,  smooth chicken liver mousse in a shot glass, a miniature cake with anchovies and a tiny pizza served lollipop style on a toothpick. That certainly got our attention for starters.
Sommelier Jean-Luc Sauron oversaw the pouring of a local Viognier. Because of my diet restrictions, my meal was somewhat different than the others.  Our tuxedoed servers all sported bright green ties, a color that was echoed with my dish of asparagus napped with slices of truffles.
The main course was veal with foie gras and wild mushrooms with summer veggies napped with walnut oil.
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Fresh baked rolls are always a mainstay and choices abound.

I passed on dessert but admired its appearance.  Find out more at www.lecastellas.com

In the foothills of the Corbieres mountains of the Aude department in the South of France is the Abbaye Frontfroide, which was founded by Benedictine monks in 1093 but is now restored and in private ownership as a stunning venue for special occasions.

The cloister of Frontfroide Abbey is a lovely spot in the midst of several buildings

In the 1100s when it became linked to the Cisterian order, headquartered over the border in Spain, it became one of the wealthiest and most prominent of all the abbeys and was home for more than a hundred monks and lay brothers. When Pope Innocent II declared his crusade against the Cathar sect in 1208, Frontfroide became a center for the movement that concluded when the Cathars were wiped out. (Think catharsis) In the 1300s the Black Death claimed 75 percent of the abbey's occupants but its immense wealth allowed it to return to prominence and its building to be restored by the church. Thousands of acres around theabbey were farmed and used for the production of sacramental wine. And the cold spring, after which the Fontfroide Abbaye was named, provided plenty of water in times of drought
The abbey escaped destruction in the French revolution (1789) but began to fall into decay. Only seven monks still lived there at the end of the 19th century and in 1908 it was purchased at auction by the Fayet family, who carefully restored it over the years and continues to operate it.
Hour-long guided tours, that can be arranged in advance, are an ideal way to see the abbey and learn of its history. Be sure to step into the amazing rose garden, which was begun in 1990 and is passion of the current generation of the Fayet family owners.

The abbey contracts with a brewmaster to make its beer and its Corbiere wines continue to be made on the premises.

Our tour followed a perfect lunch in La Table de Frontfroide framed around a filet of duck breast and Corbieres wine along with a hoppy beer also produced at the abbey.

Members of a motorcoach tour tuck into lunch at La Table de Frontfroid,  the dining room crafted from a onetime stable at the 1,000 year old abbey.

Catch the Aug 12 Travel to learn a little more about the Cathars and how the beautiful hilltop city of Carcassonne looks like a fairytale yet  fits into that grim chapter of church history.

David and Sandrine Ausset 

Overnights spent in the south of France can be a large part of the experience, especially if you choose a place such as Domaine des Clos, an 18th century farmhouse planted squarely amid acres of grapevines on the outskirts of Beaucaire.



Lovingly restored by its owners, David and Sandrine Ausset, it has a great swimming pool set amidst gardens, delightfully imaginative play areas for children, tables and chairs temptingly tucked beneath the shady canopy of 200-year old trees and lots of intimate spots for lounging and sipping wine over end-of-the-day conversations.

There are lots of great places to lounge and relax such as this intimate spot on a porch.

Among its rooms are several apartments, each with a complete kitchen, so it’s ideal for families or others who are watching their expenditures and  looking for a central location from which to explore by car. Accommodations are air conditioned ‑ important in the hot and sunny summer weather in the south of France.
Although set along an unpaved country road probably little changed through the centuries, it’s within less than 20 miles from Nimes, Arles, the Pont du Gard, Provence and many lovely wineries and restaurants.  It makes a great headquarters for a week-long stay and that’s just what many folks do, coming from throughout the world, year after year.



When Sandrine prepares one of her twice weekly dinners and serves it in the large dining room it’s abuzz with a half dozen languages, although English is always among them. Sandrine is  a wonderful cook and our small group of writers enjoyed a dinner and a lovely breakfast there. As David showed us a scrapbook filled with photos of the restoration process we spotted preserved details that revealed the dining room had once been a stable for probably a dozen or more horses.

We played a rousing game of Foosball at the edge of the dining room, which had been transformed from an old stable. By the looks of this little guy, it's a game dating at least from the '50s.

Although wi-fi service was sometimes spotty, it was easy to put the modern world away in exchange for a rousing match of Foosball on a non-automated device probably dating from the 1950s or a round of ping pong outdoors near the courtyard.
Most will agree that prices are reasonable. A week in a spacious apartment for four guests goes for about $900 at current exchange rates, for instance.  As is the case throughout France, breakfast is included in room rates.

The breakfast table awaits in the dining room.

Tripadvisor contributors review Domaine des Clos at and the inn’s own website offers an English translation with full descriptions and the opportunity to book online.  Go to http://tinyurl.com/6mnyrp6 to see Tripadvisor reviews and find the Ausset’s own website at http://www.domaine-des-clos.com.