News-Herald Food and Travel

Wearable art showcased in Wellington N.Z. competitionle

2012-02-14T14:23:00.000-05:00

The fashion is like nothing you’d ever see on the streets of Auckland or Wellington - or even the moon - but the annual World of Wearable Art Show in Wellington, New Zealand draws entrants and interest from all over the world. Called WOW for short, it’s a showcase for up and coming fashion designers — but with a fantastic twist. My group at the Society of American Travel Writers autumn meeting in Wellington was treated to a special showing of costumes created by winners of the 2011 show and I was standing up in front shooting videos you’ll see here..
Materials used in these wearable contrivances includes books, car parts, recycled plastic bags, human hair, coins, ballet shoes and anything else the young designer could conceive.
Some of the winners have gone on to work for WETA, producers of the notable Lord of the Rings films and the Hobbit, and for Cirque du Soleil among others. The show, which this year is Sept. 28, awards $150,000 in prize money plus scholarships to the creative winners. The full show runs for two weeks around that date.
Meet young Claire Prebble in the second video with this blog. She’s been entering the competition since she was just 8 when she and her mother entered The Junk Fish. Since then she’s entered WOW 15 times and became the youngest winner of the Supreme award when she was just 18 in 2004.
Claire is a New Zealander, but other entrants hail from the U.S., Australia, India, Thailand, Japan, Germany, the Netherlands, Israel, Fiji, Canada and the United Kingdom.
Find out how you can enter at www.worldofwearableart.com

Visit a New Zealand mission little changed since 1830s

2012-02-02T18:01:00.002-05:00

The Elms, built in the 1830s as a mission house on the Bay of Plenty, is the oldest European building in this part of New Zealand.

Many of the books in the library at the Elms were brought by missionary Alfred Brown from England when he came to New Zealand in 1829.

Early New Zealand missionaries came to end the Maori people’s occasional cannibalism, bring them to Christianity, and teach them English.
An Anglican mission house, built in the 1830s, housed the earliest missionaries and their descendants who occupied in until 1992. Today it’s a museum and a must-see during a visit to Tauranga.
I’ll focus on that area, in the northern part of New Zealand’s North Island, in my Kiwi Kronicles series which begins in the News-Herald on Feb. 12.
The Elms, as the mission house was named, is the oldest European heritage site on the Bay of Plenty. It was built as an Anglican mission house in the 1830s. Although the city of Tauranga has grown up around it, the house was lived in from 1847 to 1992 and everything — from its furnishings and outbuildings to its gardens reflects the past.
Because early missionaries had to be self sufficient, its library contains original books covering topics that range from the expected theology, to medicine, music and gardening.
The wood framed house is small, but it was heartily welcomed by Alfred Brown, his wife Charlotte and their two young children when it was it built to replace a home made of rushes that first housed the missionary family. Missing the oaks of his English homeland led Brown to plant an acorn brought all the way from England. Today it is a giant tree among the Norfolk pines that are more customary vegetation in New Zealand. To build the stately Georgian style home, Maori workman floated native kaury logs down a nearby river and built the house to face the sun in the north. The walls of the house were filled with rushes to keep it cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
Brown traveled on foot around the area teaching English to the Maoris and bringing the word of God to them.
Their son died as a child and Charlotte followed a few years later, meeting her end in Auckland where she had traveled to seek medical help. Brown remarried in 1860 , the year that land wars between the settlers and the Maori ended his mission work.
Some of the 17 acres which originally surrounded the home were sold in 1913 to pay for its maintenance when lean-tos were built on each side of the house so a kitchen could be installed in one and bathroom plumbing in another.
Those who followed the Browns cared lovingly for the home and added to the gardens, which today are a wonderful combination of old England and New Zealand plantings.
A chapel, built to replicate the original church, is today a popular venue for local weddings.
It's a fascinating slice of early life in New Zealand.

At last: Wellington, New Zealand

2012-01-30T16:44:00.000-05:00

Maybe it was the No Jet Lag pills I tried to take every two hours for the 20 or so hours I was underway from Cleveland to reach New Zealand. Or maybe it was the sheer adrenalin excitement of finally arriving in Wellington, the beginning of a journey that’s been on my bucket list almost forever.
But I hit the streets before I even unpacked and headed up the unlikely named Cuba Street just a few blocks from my downtown Wellington hotel.
I’d been sandwiched between two very portly people in a middle seat on the 14 hour Los Angeles to Auckland leg of the journey. I pressed flesh with each of them since they overlapped into my Air New Zealand seat. So I took refuge in an Ambien, a prescription sleep medication I rarely use when going to Europe. That’s because flights to Europe are maybe 6 hours long and I’m still groggy when I arrive.
No problem this time. I slept like a baby until hunger pangs awakened me at 4 a.m.
I was wide eyed and alert by the time I’d reached Auckland and transferred easily to my Wellington flight without any airport confusion. I was really glad to have a window seat so I could watch the New Zealand landscapes unfold beneath me before my aircraft entered the clouds.
Soon we’d arrived in Wellington, location of the conference of the Society of American Travel Writers and my home for a few days. Cuba Street, which took its name from a ship that brought settlers here in 1840, still has many of its historic old buildings. It’s mostly a pedestrian street with a distinct bohemian vibe, much like a lot of college towns I’ve visited, with many sidewalk cafes, funky boutiques, street musicians and bike racks.
I stopped for lunch at a cafe called Floridita, one of several spots playing on the Cuba and Florida theme. Great meal, good local beer and a check of about $18 — gratuities are included in New Zealand eateries.
Wellington was originally settled by the English and Scots — a fact reflected in its place names. But everything also has a Maori name, since the country is totally bilingual.
It’s on a harbor indented into the North Island from Cook’s Strait and is breezy to the max. Locals feared that our group of travel writers would fall into the Windy Wellington alliteration. You can hear the wind whistle on the video with this blog.
On a break between meetings, I zipped my raincoat, secured my hood and headed for a walk along the waterfront to shoot some of the video here. It was November — early springtime — but cold, I’d guess in the 40s with the wind and rain making it seem much worse.
There, right outside the Convention Center, was an Occupy settlement of tents and lean-tos... just like in the states. Their arguments were the same as those heard at home. Too much government, too little representation and economic issues such as unemployment and the housing bubble.
I’d traveled 8,700 miles from my home in Mentor and many things were the same.
But I’ll have several stories about my visit to New Zealand and I hope you’ll follow them in coming weeks. The first ones will run in the paper on Feb. 12 and will be online before that.

Day Seven: Orlando

2012-01-27T18:41:00.000-05:00

Theresa Neuhoff Audia, a sportswriter at The News-Herald, will be blogging while on her trip to Orlando, Florida from Jan. 21-28.

Today was our last full day in Orlando.
My husband and I debated on going to Epcot, but after a week full of activities we decided to lay low.
Plus, the weather called for showers and a clouds which wouldn't be the best conditions to walk around a theme park which cost $85 per person.
Instead, we started our day by working out. We then went to the Basilica of the National Shrine of Mary, Queen of the Universe. The Roman Catholic church was absolutely beautiful. We walked around, lite some candles and took in the beautiful church.
I almost forgot to add that we attend the Orlando Magic game last night in downtown Orlando. They played the Boston Celtics at Amway Arena.
The crowd was unbelievable. There were people everywhere. When we got to our seats, we enjoyed cheering for both teams (since we are dedicated Cleveland Cavaliers fans).
We left the game early because that day we woke up at 5 a.m. for the hot air balloon ride.
That could explain why we were too tired to go to Epcot today.
After visiting the church this morning, we went shopping at the Orlando Premium Outlets which included stores such as Guess, Bebe, Gap, Banana Republic, Rockport and more.
My husband had more luck than me shopping, but still it was a fun afternoon despite the rain.
Tonight, we are going to eat at Miller's Ale House which is close to our hotel.
Our plane leaves late tomorrow afternoon so we'll spend most of the day at the pool before we drive to the airport to go back home to snow.
I'll miss this sunny place that we've called home for the past week. We woke up to a new adventure every day which made the trip that much more exciting.
I would suggest Orlando as a vacation spot because there is so much to do. Heck, I could have spent two weeks here. But now it's time to say goodbye and go home.
Thanks for the awesome memories Orlando.

-Theresa Neuhoff Audia

Day Six: Orlando

2012-01-26T17:28:00.002-05:00

Theresa Neuhoff Audia, a sportswriter at The News-Herald, will be blogging while on her trip to Orlando, Florida from Jan. 21-28.

Early morning getting ready for takeoff on the hot air balloon.

Orlando sunrise from hot air balloon.

This morning at 5 a.m., my husband and I awoke for a once-in-a-lifetime trip on a hot air balloon.
We booked our flight through Orlando Balloon rides. The cost is $175 per person, but it is worth every penny.
We met at a local Radisson Hotel at 6 a.m. along with about 20 other people from all over the world who were just as excited as we were.
Shortly after we met, we packed into two vans and headed out for a field in the middle of nowhere about 45 minutes away. When we arrived at the field, the crew unloaded a large wicker basket which over 20 people fit into.
With the sun rising in the background, we watched as the crew blew the balloon up with fans. It was an amazing sight. Before we knew it, we were climbing into the large, stabilized wicker basket. Soon, we gradually started to float off the ground and into the air at a height of over 1,700 feet.
Once we maintained a comfortable flying height, we enjoyed the silence and beauty around us. It was a surreal feeling to be so high in the air. Slowly, we cruised over trees, houses, golf courses and orange groves.
The pace was controlled and relaxed. I was little tense at times, but the crew seemed to know exactly when to tell a joke to lighten the mood and make everyone around them feel at ease.
We were told the landing would be the hardest part, but it was smoother than I imagined. Our captain safely touched down in a cow pasture. There were a handful of bumps, but nothing to be alarmed about.
The flight was easy and safe, but still I was thrilled to be back on the ground. We were safe after flying in the air like birds.
The day before, I went hang gliding and if I were to compare the two, I would say hang gliding gives you more of a adrenaline rush. Riding in a hot air balloon is a piece of cake compared to the hang gliding because so many people are in the same position as you are.
A few weeks ago, I had to beg my husband to ride in the balloon. Today, I could tell he was thrilled to take a chance.
We will never forget the experience.

-Theresa Neuhoff Audia

Day Five: Orlando, Part Two

2012-01-25T20:17:00.000-05:00

Theresa Neuhoff Audia, a sportswriter at The News-Herald, will be blogging while on her trip to Orlando, Florida from Jan. 21-28.

I didn't think my day could get any better after hang gliding at the Wallaby Ranch, until my husband and I went to Universal Studios and Universal's Islands of Adventure.
It was a perfect, sunny day with temperatures over 75 degrees.
We started out at Universal Studios and walked immediately to the back of the park around 9:30 a.m. We figured if we started at the back of the park, the lines wouldn't be nearly as long and we were right.
We got right on The Simpsons Ride without having to wait. From there, we went to the Men in Black Alien Attack ride which was also located in the World Expo section of the park.
Since we were on a roll, we continued on in the back of the park to the New York section to ride Revenge of the Mummy. We also rode Disaster which was located in San Francisco. To top it off, we went to the E.T. Adventure in Woody Woodpecker's Kidzone.
Right before lunch, we rode the Hollywood Rip Ride Rockit which was like riding Top Thrill Dragster at Cedar Point. It was a rough ride and all I could think was I'm glad we rode it before lunch and not after.
Lunch was a nice break in the day.
We stopped at an Irish-themed restaurant called Finnegan's Bar and Grill. It was average, but we were so hungry and thirsty it felt like we were eating filet mignon and drinking martinis.
The second half of our day, we watched back-to-back shows (we were still spinning from the Rip Ride). The first show was Terminator 2 which was a 3D delight. Afterward, we went to a Horror Make-Up Show. The cool air inside the theater made it worthwhile to sit through the show.
Since it was getting late in the afternoon, we decided to hit Islands of Adventure. Again, we timed it perfectly. It was 3 p.m. and it felt like the place was clearing out. We headed right to the Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey ride which was spectacular. We didn't even wait for the ride, which is the best I went on the entire day.
We ended the day by riding The Incredible Hulk Coaster and the Amazing Adventures of Spider-Man ride.
At about 5:30 p.m., we ran out of energy. We also wanted to beat the crowd that would be leaving at closing time (7 p.m.) so we decided to leave.
Looking back, it would have been nice to do the Islands of Adventure and Universal Studios on separate days. I think there is just too much to see to limit it to one day. My husband and I don't have kids and we could only see so much rushing through the parks.
I think we would have enjoyed it more if we took the time and made a two-day adventure out of it.
Either way, I'm glad we had such a jam-packed fun day.

-Theresa Neuhoff Audia

Day Five: Orlando, Part One

2012-01-25T19:33:00.001-05:00

Theresa Neuhoff Audia, a sportswriter at The News-Herald, will be blogging while on her trip to Orlando, Florida from Jan. 21-28.

Today was one of the best days of my life.
I woke up at 6 a.m. to prepare for my first adventure of the day - hang gliding at Wallaby Ranch in nearby Davenport.
When my husband and I arrived at the 500-acre ranch, we were greeted by a knowledgeable, friendly staff who made us feel comfortable from the start.
Before we knew it, the owner of the ranch, Malcom, arrived to give us a quick tour. Soon, we were driving on a golf cart to the launch site.
My guide Steve and I rode tandem on the hang glider. He and I were strapped into the glider and before I knew it, a towplane took us over 2,000 feet in the air. Once we were released from the towplane, Steve and I went free-flying over a dew-covered forest with the sun shining brilliantly in the background.
It was one of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen.
I felt like a bird flying through the air. At times, I was a little scared and my body tensed up, but once I got the hang of it, I relaxed and soaked in the experience.
I could barely see the trees below let along my husband who was taking video of me. The view was once-in-a-lifetime. The thrill made you feel as if you could accomplish anything.
Honestly, I couldn't believe I had the courage to hang glide until I was up in the air. It was like a challenge I made myself do, just to see if I could do it.
Before I knew it, the ride was over. We slowly swayed to the ground at the exact same spot we took off from. Steve, who has been hang gliding for 18 years, ensured we had a smooth landing.
When I got out of the hang glider, my husband, Malcom and a few other employees were there to greet us. It was a great feeling to be safe on the ground.
I'm glad I was able to cross something off my list of life-changing events I've always wanted to do.
It was life changing, because I didn't let fear hold me back from going 2,000 feet in the air.
Instead, I went for it and accomplished something I never dreamed I could.

-Theresa Neuhoff Audia

Day Four: Orlando

2012-01-24T21:46:00.000-05:00

Theresa Neuhoff Audia, a sportswriter at The News-Herald, will be blogging while on her trip to Orlando, Florida from Jan. 21-28.

This morning, we were all set to go on a hot air balloon ride through the Orlando Balloon Rides, but it was postponed until Thursday due to weather.
We went to plan 'B' and decided to workout and hit the pool instead.
It was another perfect day. The temperature reached 83 degrees. My mom called me from her home near Cleveland to remind me it was still snowing there.
It made me appreciate the sunshine all day long.
At the pool, we met a nice couple from Atlanta who told us to check out Downtown Disney. We didn't realize the exciting entertainment district was less than two miles from our resort.
We arrived around 6 p.m. and had dinner at Fulton's Crab House. My husband ordered the stuffed Rhode Island lobster. I ordered the seafood platter which included scallops and crab-stuffed shrimp. With drinks, an appetizer and tip, the dinner came to over $150. But it was well worth it.
Afterward, we walked around Downtown Disney which is divided into three sections - Pleasure Island, Marketplace and West Side. Even though it was a Tuesday night, it was packed with people.
What was most exciting about Downtown Disney was the different cultures all mixed into one. In one corner of the entertainment center, we heard country music. In another, we heard a band playing motown. From restaurant to restaurant, each one had its own unique theme.
It didn't cost anything to walk around Downtown Disney which was a plus.
So far, Orlando has proven to be a hot vacation spot. It's not just about Disney, but so much more. If there's something you've always wanted to do, you can find it in Orlando.
Early tomorrow morning, I'm going to do another activity I've never done.
I'm going hang gliding for the first time in my life at Wallaby Ranch.
Earlier today, I watched a video in which Al Roker of the Today show went hang gliding at Wallaby Ranch. It made me that much more excited to take the ride.
I'll tell you all about it tomorrow.
For now, I'm exhausted after a busy non-stop day.
Here's to a fun-filled vacation so far in Orlando.
The trip has exceeded all of my expectations.

-Theresa Neuhoff Audia

-Theresa Neuhoff Audia

Day Three: Orlando

2012-01-23T18:02:00.001-05:00

Theresa Neuhoff Audia, a sportswriter at The News-Herald, will be blogging while on her trip to Orlando, Florida from Jan. 21-28.

One of my favorite shows growing up was Fantasy Island.
Guests would arrive at the island in a relaxed setting and set out on an adventure of a lifetime.
That is kind of what going to Discovery Cove is like.
It's an adventure you won't soon forget.
Dan and I arrived at the quiet, beautiful place around 10:30 a.m. We were greeted by knowledgeable staff who knew every answer to our questions.
Where was the Sea Venture?
How long would it take?
What else is included in the price of our admission?
The staff answered every question and made us feel right at home.
We walked along a beautiful path full of lush, tropical plants to Sea Venture, which was our first stop. Sea Venture is located in Discovery Cove. There is a separate charge (around $60 apiece) to do the side trip, but it is worth the price.
The experience starts with a large astronaut-like helmet that is carefully placed on your head as you ascend underwater. It's almost like diving without having to do all of the extensive training. Anyone can do it. We were told if we could breathe and walk, we could do it. They were right.
We were lucky because it was just my husband and I on a guided tour with three guides who pointed out everything from sharks to sea urchin and starfish. They were a first-class crew who obviously knew what they were doing.
I would give the experience an A+. When you come back up on the surface after being underwater for about 45 minutes, you feel refreshed. You have just experienced a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity that few people are able to enjoy.
It's like walking in an aquarium packed with the greatest, most colorful fish you've ever seen.
Since Discovery Cove is an all-inclusive resort, breakfast and lunch was included in the price of admission (which is over $100). The lunch was cafeteria style and the food was delicious. Drinks (including beer, mango margaritas and pina coladas) were also included.
After a wonderful lunch, my husband and I went snorkeling in the same spot where we did the Sea Venture. Sting rays were swimming right under us along with schools of fish and more. It was an awesome experience to be so close to the fish.
To end our perfect day, we went took the lazy river which took us through the bird sanctuary. Along the way, we saw a pink flamingo napping on one leg. It made you feel as if you were somewhere in the Caribbean instead of simply in Florida.
Before leaving Discovery Cove, we showered, enjoyed a cold drink and soaked in the atmosphere one last time.
If a Fantasy Island remake is ever going to be made, it could be filmed at Discovery Cove.
It is that beautiful.

-Theresa Neuhoff Audia

Day Two:Trip to Orlando

2012-01-23T08:28:00.001-05:00

Theresa Neuhoff Audia, a sportswriter at The News-Herald, will be blogging while on her trip to Orlando, Florida from Jan. 21-28.

We are lucking out with the weather in Orlando because it is unseasonably warm. It was in the high 70's today and we took advantage of it.
Following a quick workout at the resort, we headed straight to the pool where we spent most of our day.
It was amazing being in the sun in the middle of winter. So refreshing.
Later that night, we drove to downtown Orlando which is only about a 20-minute drive from our resort to meet my youngest sister Mary.
It was so good to see her. She looked as pretty as ever. I could have talked to her for hours, but the night was over before we knew it.
I am looking forward to my adventure tomorrow which is Discovery Cove.
It's an all-inclusive, reservations only tropical island oasis. I've read you can swim with dolphins which will be an amazing experience. There is also snorkeling which is one of my favorite activities.
Just imagine, it's snowing and cold back home and tomorrow I'll be spending the day swimming and playing with dolphins.
Pretty amazing.

-Theresa Neuhoff Audia

Day One: Trip to Orlando

2012-01-21T23:43:00.000-05:00

Theresa Neuhoff Audia, a sportswriter at The News-Herald, will be blogging while on her trip to Orlando, Florida from Jan. 21-28.

Day One...

When we left our house in Euclid, Ohio today, it was cold and snowy. Despite the weather conditions, I walked out with sandals because in a few hours, I knew I would be in the warm sunny weather in Orlando, Florida.
My husband Dan, who is always thinking, upgraded us to first class on Continental. Earlier in the week, the cost to upgrade was over $500 a person. He paid under $70 for each of us to fly first class which was worth it because it would have cost us around $25 each to check a bag (baggage fees were included in the first class upgrade).
It was my first time in first class, and I was pretty impressed. They bring you whatever you would like to drink during the entire flight and a plate of food, which on this day was cold cuts, cheese, crackers, fruit and cookies. How lovely.
When we arrived in Orlando, we picked up our rental car and decided to upgrade there too. We splurged and rented a red Mustang convertible. The first thing we did was put the top down and drive straight to the hotel.
We arrived at the Sheraton Vistanta resort around 7 p.m. After checking in to our quaint room, we drove straight to Publix to go grocery shopping.
We picked up essentials and more because our room has a small kitchen which I'm hoping will save us a little money.
After a first class day all the way, I'm ready for some rest.
Tomorrow, we plan on getting up early, working out and checking out our resort. I'm hoping the pools are beautiful.
Later tomorrow night, we will be meeting up with my youngest sister Mary, who lives in Orlando. I'm not sure what we will be doing, but I'm sure it will be an adventure.

-Theresa Neuhoff Audia

Ready for adventure in Orlando

2012-01-20T18:11:00.003-05:00

Theresa Neuhoff Audia will be blogging about her trip to Orlando, Florida which begins on Jan. 21 and ends Jan. 28. She is a sportswriter at The News-Herald, but loves traveling just as much at NH travel writer Janet Podolak.

I may not be Janet Podolak, but I may love travel just as much as her.
My name is Theresa Neuhoff Audia and I'm a sportswriter at The News-Herald.
Tomorrow, my husband Dan and I leaving for Orlando, Florida.
Janet has been kind enough to put me in contact with some knowledgeable people from Visit Orlando who have helped me plan a few exciting adventures.
On my trip, I'm going to be blogging every day to keep you updated on what's going on. It's hard to believe my suitcase is packed full of bathing suits, dresses and shorts since it's about to snow here any minute.
Packing in the middle of winter for a sunny place is exciting. I think I've been excited since the moment I knew I was going on this trip. Who wouldn't be?
Part of the reason I'm excited to go to Orlando is because my youngest sister Mary lives there. She is 10 years younger than me and already has a full agenda planned for Sunday night. It will be fun, I'm sure and I don't even know what we will be doing yet.
Here's what the rest of our week looks like:
Saturday: arrive, grocery shop, settle in
Sunday: out with my sister
Monday: Discovery Cove, an all inclusive, reservations only tropical island oasis. While at Discovery Cove, Dan and I will also be taking the underwater Sea Venture.
Tuesday: Hot air balloon ride at Orlando Balloon Rides
Wednesday: Hang gliding at Wallaby Ranch
Thursday: Orlando Magic vs. Boston Celtics game (I think my husband is most excited about this event).
We also plan on going to Universal Studios, possibly zip line over alligators, SeaWorld and whatever else we can fit in.
So here's a final goodbye from Ohio.
The next time I'll be talking to you, I'll be in warm, sunny Orlando, Florida.

-Theresa Neuhoff Audia

Valentine romance in Loire

2012-01-17T17:30:00.000-05:00

Just as it's difficult to say goodbye to a great book, so it was hard for me to end my four-part series about exploring France's Loire Valley chateaux.
I loved every minute of my September trip and writing about it to share with News-Herald readers was just as much fun. Thanks to the internet you can catch up with those stories online.They are: Steampunk meets tomorrow in Jules Verne’s French hometown at http://tinyurl.com/d4qc6g3; Choose different perspectives to discover 900 years of Loire Valley life at http://tinyurl.com/7svb7wc; Walk with daVinci’s genius at http:// /tinyurl.com/cnf6ftc; and Meet Renaissance women rivals who lived in chateaux 12 miles apart at http://tinyurl.com/6nr7op4
Call me a romantic but I can't imagine a more wonderful Valentine trip than this part of the world. And with Discover France you can stay in castle hotels, have a vintage car and driver take you around, enjoy a chocolate tasting, wine tasting and cooking class. Take romantic walk over cobbled streets of an ancient village or two, sample fresh caught oysters from a market stall and visit vineyards and troglodyte dwellings. Gourmet meals and visits to Chenonceau are important elements.
The experience combines the best of a self-guided tour with privileged access to places only the experts know about. Visit http://www.discoverfrance.com or call them at 800-960-2221.

Sinking the cruise industry?

2012-01-17T11:25:00.000-05:00

Who would cruise the Mediterranean in January? I shared that reaction with Jennifer Fried, manager at Traveline in Willoughby, when I first heard of the Friday 13th disaster involving the Costa Concordia off Italy's Tuscan coast. Passengers still are missing from that 4,000-passenger ship, which was recently built and the largest ship serving Europe. It's winter there this time of year, just as it is here.. not quite as cold but winter nonetheless. The seven-day Med cruise was priced as low as $399 online, and Fried said it's marketed mainly to Europeans. She said she wouldn't book anyone on a wintertime cruise in the Mediterranean.

I also wanted to find out why many passengers apparently hadn't been part of a lifeboat drill.
On all of my own two dozen or so cruises, the lifeboat drill took place within the first 24 hours, usually shortly after the ship set sail. Jennifer tells me that when a passenger she booked on a Caribbean cruise failed to attend the mandatory life boat drill, Fried was contacted by the cruise line. "They were ready to put the passenger ashore," she said. "That's how seriously they take it."

Life boat drills have changed some in the 30 years I've been cruising. On my last voyage passengers didn't have to retrieve their life vests, put them on and go to their assigned lifeboat stations. Instead we took life vests to the lounge where we saw a video about evacuation procedures.Attendance was taken to be sure every passenger was there. Members of the Cruise Lines Industry Association trade group comply with rules mandating a life boat drill within the first 24 hours of a cruise, according to a spokesman.

Maritime law may differ in Europe, and as Fried pointed out, the Concordia's itinerary allowed it to take on and disembark passengers at several different ports - quite unlike cruises in this part of the world, which begin and end at certain ports and last a prescribed number of days.

"The Concordia seems to have been more like a ferry boat," she observed. When they appeared on Tuesday's Today Show, Concordia passengers Melissa Goduli and her mother Maria Papa said there had been a lifeboat drill aboard the ship the previous Saturday. But other passengers had differing accounts.

But when I took the Hurtigruten Norwegian coastal voyage from Kirkeness to Bergen it was aboard a true ferry boat. And a very thorough lifeboat drill took place before we departed that Arctic village near the Russian border.

Will this disaster mean the end of the cruise industry? I asked Fried.

"Those who have cruised before usually have a great experience and they'll cruise again," she said. As far as vacation types go, cruising gets high marks for satisfaction.

But I predict some who have never cruised might not be so anxious to do so, despite cruises fares that may come tumbling down in the wake of this disaster off Italy. And I also predict that the rules governing cruise ships and safety at sea will also undergo some changes.

Exquisite sleeps in Loire chateaux

2011-12-29T10:21:00.007-05:00

Chateau Chissay is one of several chateaus in France's Loire Valley to offer overnight accommodations to visitors.

Chateau Chissay's dining room awaits with fine china, crystal and starched tablecloths.

Both Johnny Depp and Mick Jagger keep chateaux in the Loire Valley, known as the garden of France for its mild climate, wildflower strewn roadsides, and solid place in French history. But except for a glimpse of Jagger’s manse from a hot air balloon, we writers didn’t see their places on my fall press trip. We amply contented ourselves instead with explorations of the chateaux where Leonardo da Vinci spent his final years, where the 16th century rivalry between Catherine de Medici and Diane de Poitiers played out and where the Renaissance bloomed. Many of the 300 chateaux in the Loire Valley have been reinvented to showcase the past for modern visitors and it’s the experience of a lifetime to see them.
This part of France is just a little more than two hours by high speed train from the Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris so is an easy-to-arrange destination for Americans.

A hillside strewn with wildflowers frames the chateau's swimming pool as seen from a stone patio where wine and cheese is served before dinner.

Quite a number of the still privately owned chateaux have been reconfigured to provide overnight lodging to visitors and it’s an experience quite unlike any other. We enjoyed two nights at chateaux - nights that went by all too quickly. It was dark when we arrived Chateau de Pray and bedtime for me at 10:30 when we’d finished a lovely meal there.

Departure was shortly after dawn so I didn’t even get the photos I’d wanted.
We arrived in late afternoon at Chateau de Chissay, which isn’t far from Chenonceau Chateau, the subject of the final story in my Loire series, which runs on Jan. 8. It was a charming finish for my last night in France, but I desperately wished for a longer stay. It's so often the downside for travel writers that so much must be covered that its impossible to spend time enough to soak in the ambiance at wonderful places. The photos here were taken at Chateau Chissay and you can see how delightful it is.
Much to my surprise, ancient fabrics still are in place, antiques fill public areas and some guest rooms have working fireplaces. I fell in love with Chissay, which predates Christopher Columbus, and in modern times has hosted Charles de Gaulle and other notables meeting for strategizing during World War 2.
It’s likely that I had the very suite where deGaulle may have stayed, or at least I like to imagine that. But the chateau was completely renovated in 1986, so perhaps not.

Silk wallcoverings and a comfortable canopied bed with high thread-count linens characterize guest rooms at Chateau Chissay.

My room had silk wallcoverings, grandly vaulted ceilings and a huge canopy bed the equal of those we’d seen in royal chateaux. My bathtub had claw feet and handpainted tiles showing chapters in French history adorned the bathroom walls.
Tall stone framed windows looked out on the gardens and swimming pool below with frothy bathroom curtains catching the breezes from a forested area beyond. Fine linens draped the bed for my silky sleeping comfort .

A deep claw-foot tub allows a full submersion bath

It was no surprise to discover that rates in euros ranged from 135 to about 350 a night ($175 to $475 with meals) But those lucky enough to stay there say it's worth every penny.
Many of the chateaux offering overnight lodging are members of Bienvenue au Chateau, an organization designed to protect and enhance private chateaux, manors and historic houses in France with standards that guarantee a personal touch to paying guests. Click on the English flag at its website, www.bienvenueauchateau.com to view the accommodations by region and find out about them.
Each listing also indicates whether or not English is spoken.
Both of the chateaux where I stayed are closed for a time during winter but reopen in the spring when the Loire valley is arguably at its loveliest. I cannot imagine a more pleasant thing than using one of these places as headquarters for a meander among the villages and chateaux of the surrounding countryside.
Learn about them at www.chateaudepray.fr and www.chateaudechissay.com

Learning from others

2011-11-30T13:55:00.001-05:00

I learned lots from my group of international journalists while visiting France's Loire Valley in September. The ten of us, shown here after our wonderful hot-air balloon voyage, came from Tokyo, Hong Kong, Beijing, Moscow and America, by way of Berlin.
The next story in my series about the trip will run on Dec 11 and I hope you will read it.
I was the eldest of the group by probably 15 years. That's me in the middle, wearing green.All but me had i-Phones and most of them logged on to do blogs each day. . Journalists are a curious bunch and we all asked a lot of questions, but since we were in each other's company at least 12 hours a day a dynamic of courtesy evolved among us. I learned that people from Beijing and Hong Kong are very different and don't even speak the same language, although here in America we know both as Chinese. As a food writer, I know that the Chinese typically don't eat cheese so I asked them why. "We don't like the smell," replied Peng, shown in the yellow shirt in front of the group.

But our colleague Siu Ming Chan (standing, far right) from Hong Kong devoured the beautiful French cheeses we were offered, including those served for dessert. When I learned that Yoshiharu Fujiwari (far left) was born in Nagasaki just a few years after the city was bombed in World War 2, I was curious about what life was like for him as a child. But after learning the bomb site is still a large, lifeless area that's off-limits more than 60 years later, I got the sense that further questions would not be welcomed.
Petite and pretty Xue Zhao, probably in her mid-20s and second from left above, asked me to call her Snowflake when she discovered that I couldn't get my lips around her name. "I was born in a snow month," she said. "That's my nickname."
Whenever we crossed the street in busy Nantes, Snowflake would come to my side, and firmly take my arm in hers to cross the street. I quickly realized that she probably perceived me as elderly and the Chinese respect and revere their elders. I took no offense and found it delightful, but after a few days of watching me scale castle ramparts and jump in and out of a hot air balloon she stopped doing it.

Loire chateaux gardens

2011-11-29T14:54:00.004-05:00

Chateau Chenonceau visitors look over some of the gardens originated in the 16th century by Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de Medici as kayakers on the river over which the chateau was built explore by water.

The gardens at the Royal Chateau Amboise were designed in an English style with regularly placed and carefully manicured boxwoods as a focal point.

Ordinary wood boxes were stacked for shade and display of plants that need little water in this biodiversity garden at the Chaumont-sur-Loire Chateau where each summer more than 30 gardens are created around a theme in an international competition among landscape architects and students.

The spires of Chaumont sur Loire Chateau are seen beyond one of the Gardens of the Future which competed in the April to October 2011 International Garden Festival.

Walking on the grass is discouraged in gardens throughout France, which are instead criss-crossed by walking paths for enjoyment by garden lovers.

This Garden of the Future at the Chaumont Chateau competition used meshing to replicate large mushrooms in its design

Chateaux where rivals Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de Medici lived are just 12 miles apart in France’s verdant Loire Valley. Their lifetime rivalry over King Henry II of France played out at both of their homes and its many stories continue to fascinate today 's visitors to their beautiful chateaux. Diane, 20 years the king’s senior, was his mistress while Catherine was his wife, marrying the young king when he was 15 and she was 14. Both Chateaux were owned by the King and he moved between them.
But many who visit care little for the Renaissance intrigues of the mid-1500s, coming instead to visit the gardens.
The hundreds of acres surrounding Chaumont are the scene each year for an international garden competition while the gardens of Chenonceau perfectly set the scene between sky and water. It’s unlikely that either Diane or Catherine ever actually got down on their knees to work in the soil, but both women were sources of ideas for armies of gardeners and landscape architects among their staff members.
Since 1992 the landscaped park around Chaumont has hosted the International Garden Festival from April to October. Thirty new gardens are created here by landscape artists each spring around a theme. When I was there in September I viewed several of the Gardens of the Future, which framed the theme of biodiveristy around new blooms, new materials and innovative ideas and approaches, some of which are seen here.
I wasn’t there at night, but if you go in summer you should be. From 10 p.m. to midnight the chateau itself is illuminated by 2,500 candles while part of the gardens are lit by electroluminescent diodes, their colors revealing strange and mysterious shapes and shadows of the plants.
Meanwhile, at Chenonceau the vast, 1,700-acre gardens of both Catherine and Diane, which flank each side of the chateau, also are illuminated on summer evenings. Visitors can stroll among them to musical accompaniment from Arcangelo Corelli, Italian master of classicism.
Those who take an i-Pod tour of the chateau’s rooms will certainly be smitten by the many fresh flowers on display. They change with the season and are designed with blooms grown in the gardens. Those who wish can visit the floral workshop in the courtyard of the 16th Century farm on the premises. This time of year, majestic fir trees brighten the tour, which is warmed by blazing fires in the chateau’s many fireplaces.
That chateau was built over the Cher River, a Loire tributary, and boat tours can also be arranged by those wishing to tour by boat. learn more at www.domaine-chaumont.fr and www chenonceau.com

Cure before travel

2011-11-22T10:23:00.001-05:00

Shortly before heading for New Zealand, I was sick. Fast action was needed to head off whatever it was. First I began taking Cold-Eze, a natural preparation that's said to work best if you take it at the first sign of a cold. It felt more like flu- aching, fever, stuffiness - but I took Cold-Eze every few hours as directed. My research had revealed an elixer almost guaranteed to do the trick. So I sliced up three lemons, added them to 5 cups of water, a Tablespoon of cayenne, a Tablespoon of grated fresh ginger, two crushed garlic cloves and boiled it down to four cups. I skipped the honey, recommended to make it more palatable, and added Splenda, instead.

It was awful! But I gulped down one cup and took the rest with me to work, totally alienating anyone within breathing distance. But half of them already had whatever it was that was going around and I'd been avoiding them and using hand sanitizer at every opportunity so as not to contract whatever it was. But I got it anyway.
Now I was 24 hours from departure and still felt awful. So I ran a nice hot bath, dumped in 3 cups of cider vinegar and soaked. I asked my dear husband to keep me company, since spending the required 15 minutes soaking in a tub is like torture for me. I am just too antsy, especially with visions of packing for New Zealand running through my head.
After the 15 minute soak I felt drained and began perspiring profusely. Was this a good sign? But the next day it was time to leave. I sent my earlier blog from the airport in LAX where I waited to board my LONG flight to New Zealand. Turned out my seat in coach was between two very large people, both of whom needed seat belt extenders since their girth was greater than the seat belts Air Zealand provided.It was not pleasant. But fingers crossed, I added the No Jet Leg homeopathic preparation to my Ambien and was fast asleep before dinner was even served. It was 1 a.m. at home by then and way beyond my body's need for food.
I awakened early enough to watch a movie. I was slightly groggy, but fine upon landing 14 hours later in Auckland.
Did it work? Have I discovered an important cure? I'll never know.
I'll be writing about my New Zealand adventures in January, so stayed tuned.

John Carroll girls trip is a memorable one

2011-11-17T17:17:00.000-05:00

News-Herald sports writer Theresa Neuhoff Audia shares memories of a trip she took with friends from John Carroll University. Theresa and four friends, who were all celebrating their 40th birthdays, spent a few glorious days in Turks and Caicos. Over the next few weeks, she will share stories from her memorable trip. An indepth article on the trip will run in The News-Herald on December 11.

When is the last time you tried to get five girlfriends together?
It's almost impossible.
Especially when the women are married, have kids, busy careers and more to juggle.
Somehow, my friends Jennifer Weitzel, Lynn (Waltz) Iannizzi, Traci (Arnold) Voss, Michelle (Lyons) O'Leary, and I agreed on a place after talking about it for months.
We decided to take a trip to Turks and Caicos this past September.
We wanted to go somewhere warm to celebrate our 40th birthdays and the destination we picked could not have been better.
It was the offseason which made it affordable. It was also warm, sunny and an overall perfect time to reconnect with old college friends from John Carroll University.
Over the next few weeks, I will be blogging about my trip.
An indepth article on the trip will run in The News-Herald on Dec. 11.
I look forward to reliving the memories.

-Theresa Neuhoff Audia

Off to New Zealand

2011-11-05T10:45:00.000-04:00

I'm embarking this afternoon on a lifelong quest to spend some time in New Zealand, with a 13-hour flight tonight from LA toAuckland, then on to Wellington. Because I'll cross the international dateline I arrive Monday morning. I don't know how our daylight savings time end will affect the time, but it will be five or so hours later there than at home. Not so much a diff as some places in Europe, but none-the-less I'm trying out No JetLag, a natural ingreddent pill said to reduce the jetleg almost entirely if taken every two hours from departure. In LA that will be 10:30at night or 1:30 am in Cleve, where I usually hit the sack at 9 p.m. I expect to be sound asleep shortly after take-off... The pill is made in New Zealand which is a jetlag distance from almost everywhere else. People think it's right next door to Australia, which is in the neighborhood, but still another 4 hour flight away if memory serves. Ive flown Air New Zealand down under before, last time to Melbourne, Australia and remember the Auckland Airport as a welcoming place where I was able to take a pay-for shower and buy some woolen hats on my layover.

I expect to be blogging from Wellingotn, and later on from the Bay of Islands and Cormandel, where I'll be kayaking and checking to see if the wrecked ship hung up on a reef is still spilling oil.

Stay tuned. It should be fun.

Living to see 65

2011-10-17T12:43:00.001-04:00

"Two-thirds of the people who have ever lived to 65 are living today."
I saw this quote over my head at an airport, I don't remember which, but it was in Canada. Seeing it, I stopped and backed up so I could take out my notebook and write it down.

It wasn't attributed but I was on a moving walkway in an airport so backing up to write it down was no small feat. It's hard to believe it's really true, and as a journalist I'd like to try and authenticate it.

I'm among those living today who have reached that milestone and it's really something to think about. In September, when I was in the Loire Valley of France, I observed my 40th anniversary here at The News-Herald. My colleagues there arranged for a candle to be added to the cheese plate I'd ordered for dessert. It was a sweet thought, even if I was old enough to be a grandmother to several of them. A sweet young woman from Beijing, another travel journalist on the trip, took my arm every time we crossed the street. I'm sure it was a reflection of the way she'd been reared to respect and care for her elders.

I can't even begin to tell you how many ways the business and practice of journalism has changed since September, 1971 when I took my first job here. I won't say it's all good, because it's been traumatic at times. But I'm still excited to come to work most days, and think I must have one of the most interesting jobs in the entire world.

As I approach another milestone birthday I find myself reading the obituaries more often than ever. It's especially chilling to note all those who have passed away who are younger than I am now.

But my old friend Arline Kneen just celebrated her 95th birthday. I was with her in Australia when she turned 73, and she's still working and traveling.

Tell me, please, how you approach the prospect and the reality of aging. It IS just a number, isn't it?

Feast of the Deceased

2011-10-15T10:17:00.000-04:00

Hello there, City Editor John Bertosa here, and when I get an invitation to have a gourmet dinner at night in an old graveyard, I say yes and bring along my wife/photographer, Jeannene.
The event was held Friday at Monroe Cemetery, Cleveland's second oldest and tucked away in a residential corner of Ohio City, about a half-mile or so southwest of the West Side Market.
The event, put on by the group Emerging Chefs, took place under a connected series of tents that accommodated about 100 guests (many dressed in Halloween costumes) and included soft orange and yellow lighting in addition to candles and a DJ playing music that evoked the season and locale (for example, Metallica's "Enter Sandman").
The power flickered off momentarily a couple times but guests thought it just added to the atmosphere and it also served as a reminder of what an imposing feat organizers had done -- putting in a kitchen and putting on a full, catered party in a cemetery that normally does not have any electricty.
The chef for the evening was Brian Doyle of Sow Food. Using an urban farm in Ohio City, he is a caterer with plans to eventually open a restaurant that is part of its own supply chain of urban farms.Those in NE Ohio might recognize some of the restaurants where he previously worked, including Quail Hollow, Lure Bistro and Gamekeepers.
His menu was tailored to the graveyard and Halloween season, and for the most part it showed a sensibility of having to cater for about 100 people yet had sophisticated plating and taste.
The amuse bouche was a "True Blood E Marry Oyster Shot" but instead of a strong, in-your-face bloody mary it was a clean shot of tomato water which didn't overwhelm the freshness of the oyster at the bottom of the glass.
The "Raw Flesh Carpaccio" also was simple yet perfectly accented by the tartness of shaved parmigian cheese, crispness of micro-greens, saltiness of capers and texture of a crostini. Like bacon, a dish can always use more of the salty goodness of capers but that might just be me talking.
The "Pumpkin Potage with Beet Frits" was perfectly pureed, giving diners a full-bodied soup course on a cold fall night. Touch Supper Club had been contributing a cocktail with each course and the spiced bourbon punch that came with this course further made this scream "Autumn!"
As for the "Foie Gras and Rabbit Liver Ravioli with Fava beans and Chianti reduction," the filling was smooth and savory and the reduction was a sweet complement and had some diners using their spoons to scoop up what remained before the servers took away the plates. I found the pasta of the ravioli to be a little thick and dry, probably hurt by the catering aspect of the meal in that it had cooled down too much.
The highlight of the graveyard meal was an actual pig's head served family-style. The chef had graciously pulled apart most of the pork and removed the eyeballs but the teeth were still attached to the skull and diners were able to pick additional flesh off the bone. The pork was juicy, the skin roasted to a sweet and sour crispiness, all served on a bed of fried rice that was able to soak in the pork flavors before being served.
Decadent chunks of chocolate with shards of sugar "glass" and "blood spatter" ended one of the most unusual dining experiences I've ever had. And we are already talking about next year.

Nantes Loire location shapes its food

2011-10-04T09:57:00.001-04:00

This fish monger's stall was one of the busiest early on a Wednesday morning at Nantes' Talensac Market.

The food of Nantes, once at the Atlantic Ocean mouth of France's Loire River, has been shaped by its location for eons. Read about it Sunday in Travel, but today I'm offering a scallops recipe that has its roots in the 18th century, when Nantes was a primary port for spices from Asia.
Earlier it had been Europe's main port for ships picking up slaves in Africa, delivering them to the West Indies sugar plantations and bringing sugar cane back to Nantes for processing.
My first morning in Nantes, I headed on foot to the Talensac market, which turned out to be a combination indoor-outdoor market familiar to those who frequent Cleveland's West Side Market. Produce was artfully arrayed in outdoor booths, operated by vendors who purchased it each day from area farmers, while the indoor areas were devoted to meat, cheeses, and all kinds of fish.
Despite not speaking French, I quickly learned that September was sardine season and bountiful mounds of glistening sardines were among the fish displayed. I took that hint and ordered them for dinner that night and was delighted that I had. Later, while exploring the city, I even found the popular sardines replicated in candy at the shop of Nantes candy maker.

Sardines made of candy look like the real thing.

See them among the market photos that accompany this story.
This scallops recipe employs the lovely Muscadet white wine we drank throughout out explorations among the chateaux of the Loire Valley, which I hope you'll enjoy reading about over the next few months. I'll also be telling you more about my traveling companions, an international group of journalists hailing from China, Hong Kong, Tokyo, and Moscow.

The recipe is great for company because it can be done in advance, for finishing just before you sit down to eat. It's adapted from Anne Willan's amazing "Country Cooking of France."

COQUILLES SAINT-JACQUES NANTAISE
(Sauteed scallops with spices)
Serves 6 as first course
1-1/2 pounds sea scallops
1/4 cup flour seasoned with salt and black pepper
2 teaspoons curry powder, more to taste
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, more to tatse
4 Tablespoons butter
1 large onion finely shopped
2/3 cup dry white wine
1 pound tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
Salt and black pepper
2 Tablespoons Cognac
2 to 3 Tablespoons browned bread crumbs (see below)
2 Tablespoons butter, melted
6 scallop shells or individual flameproof baking dishes
Wash scallops, pat dry and discard tough, crescent-shaped muscle adhering to one side. If scallops are large, slice them in half horizontally to create 2 disks. In a bowl, mix together the seasoned flour, curry powder and cayenne pepper. Add scallops and toss to coat.
Melt 3 Tablespoons butter in deep frying pan over high heat until foaming. Add scallops and sauteed until brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn and brown other side, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Lift out and divide evenly among scallop shells or baking dishes. For sauce, add remaining 1 Tablespoon butter to pan. Reduce heat to medium, add onion, and saute until soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Pour in wine and simmer until reduced by about half. Stir in tomatoes, season with salt and black pepper and cook just until tomatoes are pulpy, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in Cognac, taste, and adjust seasoning adding more curry powder and cayenne if you like. Spoon sauce over scallops. Sprinkle with bread crumbs and melted butter. Scallops may be prepared to this point 6 hours ahead and refrigerated. To finih, heat broiler. Broil scallops about 4 inches from heat until very hot and browned, taking care not to overcook them or they will toughen. Serve at once.

Brown bread crumbs

Use sliced white bread. Discard crusts and toast bread in oven at 350 degrees until golden brown, 10 to 15 ninutes. Let cool and work toast to crumbs in a food processor or blender. They may be stored in an airtight container for 3 months.

Fresh sardines glisten at a fish monger's stall.

Freshly caught crabs, shrimp and scallops vie for attention.

A market vendor shows me a charente melon - the first I think I'd ever seen.

Goat and sheep's cheeses are arranged for easy selection at the Talensac Market in Nantes.

So busy, so full

2011-09-24T18:18:00.000-04:00

Since I last checked in from Nashville, Tenn., there's been more this, that and the other.

And by "other," I mean food. Man, do they feed you on these press travel junkets. And, hey, I wasn't really looking for a reminder that I tend to lack self-discipline when it comes to restaurants at which I've never had the pleasure of eating.

A quick rundown of much, but not all of, what I've seen and done the last couple of days:

- Toured the gorgeous Frist Center for the Visual Arts, a huge one-time post office.

- Dined at the upscale Boundr'y, where my duck breast was delayed but well worth the wait.

- Caught a bit of rising musical act Foster the People ("Pumped Up Kicks") at a SoundLand show.

- Toured the incredibly historic Ryman Auditorium -- a must for country music fans, not that I'm telling them anything they don't already know.

- Explored artsy neighborhoods Marathon Village and Germantown, the highlight of the latter being The Cupcake Connection.

-- Headed out for a tour of Gaylord Opryland Resort and Convention Center, a Disney World-meets-Las Vegas Casino (no, there are no rides or gambling, but this place is a big world of its own). After dinner at the resort's Jack Daniel's restaurant, it was time for the famed "Grand Ole Opry" radio show. Not exactly my bag but a cool experience worth having nonetheless. On our tour of the "Opry" studio after the show, country star Mark Wills, who was one of the performers, made friends with out tour group:

If I tell you I passed on a tour of the Jack Daniel's Distillery this morning, you'll know it was for a good reason. I'd hoped spending time picking the brains of veteran Nashville songwriter Billy Montana would be the highlight of the trip, and, if you'll excuse the place-appropriate pun, it was by a country mile. I'm going to save those details for a future story in the Sidetracks section, folks.

After lunch at new seafood restaurant Fish & Co. -- where the grilled maji maji was the healthiest eating choice I've made all trip -- I got to check out the neighborhood where the business sits, 12th South, followed by a quick exploration of East Nashville.

Well, that's about it for me. Tonight brings a tour of Schermerhorn Symphony Center, dinner at Arpeggio and a performance by the Nashville Symphony and then a bit more of SoundLand or a final trip to the honky-tonks. (We'll see. My flight in the morning comes pretty early.)

I hope reading about my speed-of-light Nashville adventure has made you jealous. That said, I'm looking forward to crashing on my couch in Willoughby and, with any luck, starting a diet.

Mark Meszoros | Entertainment@News-Herald.com | Twitter.com/NHFeatures

Confessions of a travel wuss

2011-09-22T17:38:00.000-04:00

I’m not going to lie, people.

I’m wiped.

Out of gas.

Cashed.

And it’s day two of a four-day trip.

I don’t know how regular travel writers, such as The News-Herald’s Janet Podolak, the main caretaker of this blog, do it. This travel writing is no joke.
Sure, trips like this one that has brought me to Nashville, Tenn., are a lot of fun – mainly free fun, full of wonderful food and cool experiences – but they’re also a lot of work.

It’s been go, go, go since I first checked in with you on Wednesday. I’ve visited

-- Nashville’s highly interesting if slightly odd replica of The Parthenon and it’s 40-foot-high statue of Greek goddess Athena

-- The engrossing gallery of Alan LeQuire, the artist who sculpted Athena

-- The exquisite Hermitage Hotel – where the throwback men’s room was actually part of the group tour – and dined at it’s highly rated Capitol Grille, where the steak was to-die-for good

After that, a few of us hit a couple of honky-tonks, including the renowned famous Tootsies Orchid Lounge, where a cover band playing everything from Johnny Cash to Journey had absolutely packed the place. I’ve never had more trouble getting OUT of a bar in my life. Seriously, if there’s a fire code, Tootsies is breaking it. A cool if claustrophobic experience.

So that was just day one. Today we hit the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum – I’ve been before and continue to think it’s a magical place. (And I’m not much of a country music fan.) From there it was off to the famed Studio B, where Elvis Presley and myriad other greats recorded gigantic hits, and finally a brief stop at Gruhn Guitars, where owner George Gruhn has millions of dollars’ worth of vintage and new guitar and sells to the stars, locals and tourists alike.

Well, it was a quick stop for me, as I cut out early to hit the room before the evening’s itinerary begins. It helped to return to a small plastic-wrapped plate with sushi and other goodies.

I guess it’s reasons like that why travel writers do it.

Talk to you on Friday. If I’m still moving.

Mark Meszoros | Enterainment@News-Herald.com | Twitter.com/NHFeatures

Greetings from Tennessee

2011-09-21T16:45:00.002-04:00

Apparently I'm in the mood for burritos.
Before my flight took off from Cleveland Hopkins Airport, I hit that newer burrito counter at the beginning of the C concourse. (It's not bad, if you're wondering.)
And now, a few hours later I've ordered this:

If you know me, you know I could not NOT order that burrito. That combination is, as I like to say, in my wheelhouse.
Perhaps this is a good time to introduce myself. I'm Mark Meszoros, the assistant managing editor/features at The News-Herald, although I'm usually referred to as the entertainment editor. I've just arrived in downtown Nashville for a few days of music-heavy fun. The main point of the trip is to take in some of Next BIG Nashville, aka SoundLand 2111, a collection of non-country musical performances, but there also will be opportunities for me to go back to the Country Music Hall of Fame -- I'm not a big country fan, but that place is fantastic if you're any kind of music lover -- and more. Look for me to check in on this blog a few times before I leave on Sunday.
Given a few hours to explore before our scheduled events tonight, I needed to refuel, hence this stop at Puckett's Grocery & Restaurant, only a few blocks from the very nice Sheraton downtown where I'm staying.
The view from my room:

If you're wondering, the burrito was blissful; it was hard to know where that wonderful pork ended and the zesty BBQ sauce began. It was brought to my barstool in only a few minutes and finished - along with a Fat Tire draft -- almost as quickly.
Now to walk it off. Talk to you soon.

Mark Meszoros | Entertainment@News-Herald.com | Twitter.com/NHFeatures

Skye opens for breakfast; dinner to follow

2011-09-21T10:48:00.000-04:00

The sign for Skye has tantalized passersby of the Lawnfield Inn in Mentor, near Mentor Avenue and Center Street. The restaurant, named after Scotland's Isle of Skye is now open for breakfast from 6:30 to 10 a.m. weekdays and 7 to 11 a.m. other days. Its late night Pub menu also is being served and on Monday it will open for dinner. Hospitality is nothing new to the Kneen family owners of the inn and restaurant since they're the folks behind Traveline, largest travel agency in Ohio, which was founded by Arline Kneen, now on the cusp of turning 92. But this is their first venture into the restaurant business. When I stopped for breakfast I enjoyed oatmeal, a wonderful mainstay of the Scots. This oatmeal was redolent of crunchy whole grains and had a little homemade apple sauce and brown sugar served on the side along with nibbles of fresh strawberry, cantaloupe and pineapple. It's one of four complimentary breakfast served to overnight guests at the inn, but only the tip of the proverbial iceberg once the full breakfast menu is glimpses. It has mini Belgian waffles, eggs Benedict, homemade granola, French toast with Bananas Foster no less and the expected pancakes, omelette and egg dishes.
Check out my breakfast video for a closer look:

Making a ganache

2011-09-19T12:51:00.007-04:00

A ganache is one of those wonderful kitchen treats - something that has a lot of different uses and can be made in just a few minutes and kept up to three weeks sealed and in the fridge. Its a sauce when the ratio is one to 2 and a candy truffle when it's one to one and it make the yummiest ever hot chocolate. It only two ingredients are heavy whipping cream and good quality chocolate. See how its done in the video.

Off to France

2011-09-02T10:13:00.000-04:00

On Labor Day Im headed back to France, this time to a small section of the Loire Valley where I'll visit the hometown of Jules Verne and see and see how his genius is influencing those who have followed him.Im told to expect a cross of steam punk and sci-fi. I'll be visiting some chateaux to see how theyve been reinvented for the 21st century and will go to one where Leonardo DaVinci spent the final few years of his life and where he finished the famous Mona Lisa, which he reputedly carried with him when he crossed the Alps from Italy into France.. It should be a great trip and I'll be blogging whenever Im able to get a wi-fi signal. One of the most interesting things about this trip will be my travel companions, all invited guests of the French Tourist Office. I'll be one of just two Americans in this international group of journalists. It will be interesting to see how they do their jobs, and I'll keep you up to date too. So please check in here betwee nnow and Sept. 11, the day I fly back home. And tell me: Would you be anxious flying internationally on 9-11?

Making ricotta style cheese

2011-08-29T11:58:00.000-04:00

Thursday's Food story will have some great recipes for late season produce, including baked tomatoes topped with ricotta and basil. You can buy ricotta, which is a fresh cheese that should be eaten within a week. But it's easy to make, especially if you can find good organic whole milk and cream that's been pasteurized but not homogenized. Any good milk and cream will do, but as any good cook knows the results are closely related to the ingredients, so find the best milk and cream you can.
You can make a lighter cheese by eliminating the cream and using another cup of milk instead. Or you can blend cow's and goat's milk together for a tangier cheese. Want a drier cheese? Drain for about 8 hours. Prefer it creamier? Drain for 3 hours or less.
The recipe is from the newly published Locovore's Kitchen from Ohio University Press

HOMEMADE RICOTTA STYLE CHEESE
(Makes one pound)
7 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
3 Tablespoons distilled white vinegar
Rinse a large, very clean, heavy nonreactive pot with cold water. (This helps prevent scorching of milk) Add the milk and cream. Stir in the salt. Place pot over medium heat and heat, stirring occasionally, until very hot but not boiling, about 180 to 185 degrees. Check temperature with a thermometer. Remove from heat and add vinegar, stirring gently until fine grains begin forming. Cover with a dry clean, lint-free cotton towel and allow to sit undisturbed for at least 3 hours and up to 8 hours. Dampen a few layers of cheesecloth or a clean, lint-free cotton cloth, and line the inside of a small colander or strainer suspended over the sink or a pot. Pour or ladle the ricotta into the prepared colander and let it drain freely for two hours - less if you want a creamier ricotta, more if you want it drier. Lift the cheesecloth up and twist gently to extract excess water (which should appear cloudy, not clear) Turn the ricotta out from the cheesecloth into a container with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate. Enjoy within a week.

Special butter for fresh corn

2011-08-25T11:58:00.002-04:00

The video with Thursday's Food column makes my mouth water all over again for freshly prepared corn on the cob. While presiding at the ICASI booth at Chardon's Friday farmers market, Chef John Sheehan handed out samples of just picked Geauga yellow corn drenched with garlic lime butter. He says it's the best corn he's tasted in 30 years, and as the retired planning administrator for the city of Chardon he's been through many harvest seasons in Geauga County.

Here's the recipe for the butter along with instructions from the cooking school on how to grill corn. Make sure it's freshly picked for the best results.

Grilled Corn with Garlic Lime Butter
6 ears of sweet corn
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 heaping Tablespoon lime zest
2-1/2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon salt
Optional heat: red pepper flakes and/or Tabasco
Whip butter with zest, garlic and spice if used. Cover and chill. Before grilling corn, peel back husks (do not remove) and remove corn silk with dampened paper towel. Place corn with attached husks in a pot of cold water and soak 15 to 45 minutes. After soaking, remove corn and shake off excess water. Take half the chilled butter and spread it evenly on corn cobs. Wrap the cobs back up in their husks and make two foil belts for each ear to seal the husks. Place corn directly on medium flame and grill 15 minutes, turning periodically. Carefully remove corn from grill, peel back husks and apply remainder of butter. Serve warm.

My name is Sean and I am a Christmas addict

2011-08-22T12:00:00.001-04:00

Bronner's - making a free slideshow

For those of you who read my recent post about our trip to Frankenmuth, Mich., you knew this was coming. For those of you who didn't catch that blog, you can find it here.

The trip was a last-minute decision thanks to hot, humid, uncomfortable weather that caused my wife and I to rethink our planned camping trip.Somewhat recent conversations with Mom had given my wife and I cause to consider a trip to Frankenmuth wherein lies Bronner's Christmas Wonderland.

I guess I'm kind of addicted to Christmas. I enjoy few things more than creating my holiday display each November. Come on, there are worse things to which I could be addicted . My addiction won't hurt anyone - except when the electric bill arrives in December and January.

We set off on Monday morning and arrived in town around 4 p.m.

The first day, we were unable to visit Bronner's because a thunderstorm had knocked out power to the area. Later that evening, after power was restored, we took a drive through Bronner's grounds - alive with displays and lights that might just make the folks at the North Pole a little jealous. (No, not the real North Pole. I'm talking about the one where Santa lives. Duh!) Bronner's keeps the lights on well into the evening.

On Day Two, after another trip into town, it was time to head to what was sure to be the highlight of the trip, and Bronner's did not disappoint!

We entered at the West Entrance (yep, there are two entrances), and it took me 10 minutes to get past the first display.

After a few steps inside, it was clear I needed some direction or we'd be there for days (not that I would have minded that), so I found the customer service desk just inside the entrance and grabbed a map - that's right, a map - of the store. You'll need one, especially if you are like me and make a quick trip or two around to take it all in and then return to the areas you want to check out again ... and again, and again, and again.

I was like a kid in a candy store.

Everywhere we looked were ornaments, lights, nativity displays, indoor decorations, outdoor decorations, Christmas trees, garland ... I could go on and on, but to get a true feel for this place is to go there. I highly recommend going there.

Should you find yourself immersed in this wonderland, do yourself a favor and remember to look up. Anything in the store that has a tag on it is for sale. My wife and I had a little bit of a problem because on our first couple of rounds through the store, we were looking around, not up. We were missing a lot.

Being one who is constantly looking to add to and upgrade my outdoor holiday display, the lighting department was high on my list of must-sees (much to my wife's dismay, I'm sure). While I didn't make any lighting purchases - budget constraints cramped my style a bit - I certainly got some good ideas.

Holiday lighting has obviously changed over the years and Bronner's has some of the newest and coolest stuff around. They have it all - traditional lights, novelty sets, LEDs of all shapes and sizes. They also stock a relative newcomer to the world of holiday lighting - the "falling" or "dripping" icicle lights. If you haven't seen them, these lights seem to fall like shining snowflakes or shooting stars. They are awesome and soon will be a part of my outdoor display ... I hope. They're not cheap, but I'll work hard to save up. I hate waiting.
Believe me, next time I'll be packing a little more cash. There are some things that I simply must have. Sorry, dear.

We spent an hour or more browsing the Dept. 56 displays. If you are a collector of Dept. 56 villages and have difficulty finding a piece, check with Bronner's. They probably have it. I picked up something small, just so I can say that, "I got that at Bronner's." It is a companion piece to a retired building my wife recently purchased for me as an early birthday gift.

Then there are, of course, ornaments ... good grief, the ornaments ... my guess would be millions. I could spend a week at this place and not see everything there. Nearly any ornament sold there can be personalized at no cost. A special souvenir for some friends back home? Yep!

Four and a half hours disappeared during our visit on Tuesday. Tuesday night, having little luck finding something to take home to our daughter, we decided we'd go back on Wednesday before heading home. A set of peace sign lights was on our list.

Our return on Wednesday was preceded Tuesday night by yet another trip through the festive grounds. What else were we going to do? It wasn't time for bed and the place was right around the corner. We walked around the Silent Night Chapel, noticed lights we hadn't noticed the night before, and found some additional items we wanted to search for during our Wednesday visit.

Now, I'm not sure if there's some kind of time warp there, but it took us two and a half hours to pick up one set of lights on Wednesday. It felt like maybe 20 minutes, but trust me, it wasn't.

For me, this was an escape. Christmas music playing at just the right level, bright lights shining all around, beautiful displays and every employee happy to help. How could a person not be happy in a place like this?

I forgot about all my worries for about seven hours over those couple days, and I can't wait to forget again.

Bronner's motto is "Enjoy CHRISTmas, It's HIS birthday, Enjoy Life, It's His way." That's certainly something worth some thought and this is certainly someplace worth a visit ... again and again and again.

-- Sean Linhart

Releasing turtles along Mayan Riviera

2011-08-12T14:07:00.000-04:00

USA 3000 flights and Apple Vacations make it really easy to to get from Cleveland to Mexico’s Mayan Riviera, south of Cancun. It’s about a three hour morning flight and you can be on the beach before noon.
If you’ll be making your getaway in the next week or so, you’ll want to check out Sunday’s Travel section (8-14) and my story about buying prescription drugs in Mexico. Videos of the Valentin Imperial Maya resort where I stayed and of Playa del Carmen, just a few minutes south of there, are imbedded in the online version of that story at www.News-Herald.com.
This is the season turtles hatch along the beaches of that Caribbean coast and a Playa del Carmen resort is awaiting the hatching of a batch of about 120 of round white eggs between late August and early September. I’m not personally familiar with the Mahékal Beach Resort, but I admire its initiative to invite guests to be part of the release of the baby turtles, which have been protected from predators since a Loggerhead turtle laid her eggs on the beach at the end of June. Several guests witnessed that event, the third time it’s happened in the past two years.. Loggerhead turtles weigh between 200 and 500 pounds and grow to almost 4 feet long.
“We will invite our guests to name and personally release each baby sea turtle into the Caribbean Sea,” said Emilio Palazuelos, general manager at Mahékal Beach Resort.
Visit www.mahekalplaya.com or call +011-52-984-813-0611 Ext. 113

Frankenmuth, Mich. - Michigan's Little Bavaria

2011-08-08T12:00:00.002-04:00

Let me introduce myself. My name is Sean Linhart and I, along with being a copy editor at The News-Herald, am a Christmas nut. I know, the first step toward recovery is admitting you have a problem.

I love everything about the holiday.

Having planned a camping trip that was thwarted by hot, humid, unpleasant weather, my wife and I were looking for another option. We settled on a trip to Frankenmuth, Mich. No reservations, no big plans, just winging it on a 4 1/2-hour trip.
For those of you who might not have heard of Frankenmuth, the small town has a reputation as home of the Bronner's Christmas Wonderland, the largest Christmas store in the world.

We left on a Monday morning, GPS in hand, sugarplums dancing in my head along with the thoughts of what I might find at Bronner's and what this tiny town might be like.

Upon arrival in Frankenmuth, we started searching the GPS for the Frankenmuth Motel.
It was the least expensive lodging we could find while doing a little research on the Internet - trying to save the $$ for ... well ... Christmas stuff!

We found the motel with little trouble, checked in, unpacked (OK, threw the duffel bag on the bed) and headed into town. By the way, the motel was GREAT! Very clean and close to town - perfect!

We found Bronner's closed because of a nasty storm that had rolled through just prior to our arrival, knocking out power to much of the area.

So we headed further into town in hopes of finding electricity and a bite to eat.
We found a nice place to park right in the middle of town - by the way, parking is free there - I mean everywhere there.

After browsing some of the shops for a bit, we decided it was time for dinner.

Zehnder's is well known for it's all-you-can-eat chicken dinners, so off we went.
If you leave this place hungry, it's YOUR fault!

The meal starts with appetizers including: homemade chicken soup, liver pate and cheese spread on large homemade croutons, cranberry relish, cottage cheese, cole slaw and bread with homemade preserves.

Then it's time for the main course: chicken, dressing, mashed potatoes, vegetable and buttered noodles with crushed saltines on top - a true comfort food if ever there was one.

After all that, if you have room, there's sherbet or ice cream for dessert.
Oh yeah, did I mention it's all you can eat?

On Tuesday, it was time to hit a few more shops and head for the Christmas store - more on Bronner's in a future blog entry. It deserves its own.

Before heading to Bronner's, we went to town to check out a couple more shops, a concession to my wife for the undoubtedly long hours she would be forced spend among the millions of Christmas decorations that awaited.

Hunting for something specific - a gift for Mom - we were told to head for Satow Drugs.

Exiting the car early in the morning, we smelled bacon and assumed it was coming from the hotel next door. Entering the drug store, we found a diamond in the rough, a small restaurant ... OK. Time for breakfast. It was a quaint little place - something out of the past and one of those places that we simply need more of.

Our bellies full of perfectly cooked eggs, toast, bacon and hashbrowns, we headed off to those shops, including the Frankenmuth Clock Shop (for a souvenir of our stay for which we got a coupon at the hotel) and The Front Porch Quilt Shop (for the wife). I gotta give a little.

Then, after a fantastic lunch including a huge, locally produced brat and fries at T-Dub's, it was time to head for Bronner's.

Again, this deserves its own entry, so more on that in the near future.

Travel is an attitude

2011-08-05T09:30:00.000-04:00

The Long Weekend of Fun set for this weekend at Wildwater Kingdom in Aurora is a perfect opportunity to test the attitude of travel. If you haven't gotten away this summer the exotic animals to Radio Disney dance parties on the wave pool deck, will be a true getaway from the everyday and a great way to wind down to fall.Festivities will kick off Saturday (Aug. 6) with Jungle Terry showcasing his hand-raised animals and reptiles on the wave pool stage from 1:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. It's a hands-on, interactive program in which you can pet and hold reptiles including snakes and baby alligators. Exotic birds from Parrot Hope Sanctuary will be located near the main gate.
On Sunday, August 7, Radio Disney teams up with Chevrolet for a high-energy show on the wave deck pool from noon to 2 p.m. Then on Monday, Aug. 8, Cleveland Indians’ Chris Perez and Slider will visit Wildwater Kingdom. Perez will greet guests and sign autographs from 2 p.m. to 3 p.m. near the front gate of the outdoor waterpark. Before that, Slider, the Indians’ mascot, will be wandering around the park mingling with guests starting at 11 a.m.
Beat the heat to challenge the 60-foot-tall Liquid Lightning tornado slide, frolic in the surf of the 390,000-gallon Tidal Wave Bay wave pool or slide down one of seven slides at Thunder Falls, Ohio’s tallest waterslide complex. Children play in Little Tikes Town or splash and soak everyone on one of Splash Landing’s four-stories of watery fun.Details: 330.562.8303

Holden benefit raises money for education

2011-07-13T10:41:00.000-04:00

The nearly 500 people who came to Holden Arboretum’s annual summer benefit enjoyed a perfect summer evening as they browsed among silent auction items, sipping, munching and reconnecting.
More than $113,000 was raised to support Holden’s educational program, which are aimed at helping the next generation appreciate trees and green spaces while fostering kids’ physical and emotional health.
Called Gnomes at Woodland Twilight, the Saturday event honored three nursery families, all of whom have been instrumental in supporting the arboretum and greening the region. Honored were Tim and Sonia Brotzman; Bill and Nancy Hendricks and Gertrude, Karl, Karen and the late Ed Losely. In its name, the event paid tribute to the 20 five-foot tall garden gnomes painted by local artists and tucked into the various landscapes of the 3,600-acre Holden Arboretum.
The dinner, catered by Sammy’s, was served at tables napped in yellow and green beneath a festive open sided white tent.
Silent auction items included an autographed Bob Feller baseball, a day’s trout fishing at a private club, tickets to the Browns vs. Ravens game in December, and lots of beautiful plants and landscaping services. Those attending browsed among them as servers offered glasses of wine and appetizers.
Following dinner beneath the tent, auctioneer Bob Hale got work on the live auction. A dinner party for 20 donated by Willoughby caterer Culinare Pavane at Lantern Court was won with a $2,800 bid; a cocktail party in a custom built tree house donated by Bill and Kathy O’Neill went for $1,700 and four collectable wines earned $3,100 for the cause. Other live auction items included an escape to a five-bedroom vacation home in Cape Hatteras, a framed painting, custom portrait and two of the gnomes.

A real deal to vacation with sharks

2011-07-11T15:06:00.000-04:00

Swimming next to hammerhead sharks through an acrylic tube is probably my favorite waterslide in the world. The hammerheads seen here are all alone in the pool with one of the Atlantis hotels in the background.

Atlantis - the ocean themed resort in the Bahamas -is a popular destination for Northeast Ohioans. It's on Paradise Island and reached by a bridge from Nassau, a 2-1/2 hour flight from here.

The slide, called Serpent Slide, is just one of more than a dozen in the 141 acre waterscape around which the resort is built. Atlantis has several restaurants, the Caribbean's largest casino, and celebrity chefs presiding at a fine collection of gourmet restaurants. It's a great place for families or groups of friends who can afford it, because there are tons of activities and places where doing nothing has been elevated to high art.
Affording all this can be tricky.
But starting now and available for only two weeks is an opportunity to save more than 65 percent. Book before Jul 24 and get a room rate starting at $99 a night. You can travel between Aug 21 and Oct. 31 when summer will be just a memory here. Visit www.Atlantis.com for a look at all the options.For reservations call your travel agent or 800 -ATLANTIS.

Port Dover dining on Ontario's south coast

2011-07-07T11:57:00.000-04:00

Port Dover, one of several towns I visited while researching what's across Lake Erie from here, has a dining experience unlike any other. The Schneider family, who has run the Erie Beach Hotel for more than 60 years, has four restaurants there. None have changed much over the years. Perch and walleye, which the Canadians call pickerel, are the most popular entrees in all the restaurants. But in the Terrace Room, a wheeled salad cart attracts its share of attention. For the back, it looks like an aquarium but when your server wheels it tableside for you to help yourself you'll find food you may not have seen in years - or ever. I'd never seen either pickled pumpkin or horseradish salad and was at first reluctant to try them.
But they were really delicious and I got the recipes.
Read my story about the trip in Sunday Travel and pay your own visit if you can. It's only about 40 miles away and if you have a fast boat you can be there in about 3-1/2 hours. Or find it about 45 minutes drive from Niagara Falls. Make reservations, though, so you aren't disappointed. It's 519 583-2161.
Here are those recipes:
PICKLED PUMPKIN
(Makes 5 to 6 pints pickles)
l5 to 6 pounds pumpkin, pared
1 pint white vinegar
3 pounds sugar
1 teaspoon whole cloves
1 Tablespoon cinnamon stick, broken
2 pieces crystalized ginger.
Cut pumpkin into 1-inch cubes. Bring vinegar and sugar to boil and simmer until sugar is dissolved. Place cloves, cinnamon and ginger in a square of cheesecloth or bag. Add pumpkin and bring mixture back to a fast rolling boil. Boil over low heat exactly 25 minutes, stirring often. Remove spice bag. Place pumpkin in sterilized jars, pour vinegar syrup on top to completely cover and seal.

HORSERADISH SALAD
Dissolve one package lemon Jello in 1-1/2 cups of boiling water. Cool and when Jello starts to set stir in 1/2 cup whipping cream, whipped stiff, 1/2 cup mayonnaise, 4 Tablespoons of drained horseradish (use juice only)
Blend thoroughly and chill.

Here's how you'll be snacking

2011-06-29T16:54:00.000-04:00

Those who attended the recent Sweets & Snacks Expo at the recent National Restaurant Show in Chicago are filling me in on what they found there. In fact Foodchannel.com compiled a list of snack food trends it spotted.
Here are some of the snacks and sweets the website says you’ll probably be able to buy soon:
1.Milk straws — they’re recyclable plastic straws filled with candy beads that are sucked up and flavor milk.
2. Antioxidant mix: The Gourmet Nut company has packaged together pecans, walnuts, goji berries, blueberries and cranberries with organic dark chocolate. Emerald Nuts showcased a Breakfast on the Go with a nut and granola mix in three flavors.
3. Wine and chocolate made its impact with a chocolate sculpted grape cluster serving as wine glass charm, fruit chocolates , and a wine-bottle shaped box of 12 chocolates complete with a wine bottle bag.
4. Fig Newton Fruit Thins is a thin cookie without the soft inner filling but it’s got 8 grams of whole grain and is supposed to taste good, too.
5. Jelly Belly will debut dark chocolate mint covered jellybeans in July .
6. Strawberry Fields Tic Tac is a new flavor that will come out in December.
7. Granny Carol’s Yummie Crunch is yogurt covered cranberries and peanuts with a pleasant crunch.
8. Smurfs hard candy lollipop. With a new Smurfs movie coming out later this year, these cute blue lollipops could be a trend that stays around after the movie is gone.
9 Trident Vitality is a chewing gum enhanced with beneficial ingredients such as green tea, ginseng and Vitamin C.
10. Ghirardelli is coming out with a new dark chocolate with sea salt and roasted almonds.

World's most beautiful voyage

2011-06-17T13:54:00.000-04:00

It's a voyage I took in early September a decade ago, partly to see where my Norwegian ancestors came from. Its possible my story could be found in the newspaper's archives but at the time it got lost in the shuffle of the events of 9-11. I returned to the states from Oslo on Sept 10 and admired the Twin Towers on that very clear day as my Cleveland flight departed New York City.
My voyage along the coast of Norway south to Bergen from the border with Russia passed through some of the most spectaculae scenery in the world.
The Hurtigruten shipping line is the only connection between some remote villages along that coast and it stops day and night to deliver all manner of supplies, from grain to tires. It also carries passengers wishing to travel among ports not connected by road or rail lines. Passengers like me who come for multi-day voyages are housed in comfortable cabins. Since there's no way for passengers to know how long the ship will be in port, shore excursions are organized in which a motor coach meets the ship, takes passengers to see the sights and returns the passengers to the ship at a later port. It all works beautifully so during my voyage I was able to visit the North Cape and many other places, including the Loftoton Islands above the Arctic Circle. My ancestors sailed from there in the 1840s, eventually settling in Minnesota.
Now, thanks to the miracles of live streaming, you can see some of the same amazing sights I saw. Multiple cameras were set up around the 691-passenger MS Nordnorge for the voyage going on right now and the state broadcaster is running it live for 134 hours starting Thursday, June 16. You will certainly be able to see the midnight. This voyage goes north from Bergen to Kirkenes, high above the Arctic Circle, with a total of 34 ports of call. It's just the opposite of the voyage I took.
The link to the live feed is www.hurtigruten.us/live. So have a look and let me know what you think.
If there is interest enough I'll see if I can find that 10 year old story and run it again. I doubt the coast has changed much.

It's flower time, finally!

2011-06-15T12:24:00.000-04:00

Gardens in June are bursting into glorious bloom, although the early spring gave many of us fits. The oak trees on my acre yard in Mentor dropped thousands (millions?) of acorns last fall, foiling our barefoot forays onto the patio. So now I've got a forest of oaks threatening to grow and must get to pulling up those seedlings before I have to use a chain saw.
I'd be pretty intimidated opening my garden to strangers, but the Madison Garden Club has recruited those who have some of the area's nicest gardens for its June 26 show. I talked to them for a story that's running on Monday and filled it with some of their tips for other gardeners.The story also will run with a video of my own garden which is pitiful by comparison but a place we love in the summer.
The photo here is not me in my garden (I wish!) but was taken in Crested Butte Colorado a few years back when we attended the mid-July wildflower festival Wildflowers in the surrounding mountains grow in such abundance that folks come from all over the world to study them. The expected columbines are found there but many are flowers I couldn't identify, including fields where they actually grow chin high.

Day One: Family fun in Indiana - on our way

2011-06-12T23:11:00.001-04:00

My family began our adventure to Santa Claus, Indiana with hopes of a great trip for my sons 2, and 4.
However, for the first hour we had our doubts.
During a our six-hour trek to Louisville, our first overnight stop, we had an encounter with police officer in Ohio. He informed us of our expired tags, but no worries, the tags were in the car, we just forgotten to put them on.
The next five-hours was a breeze as we traveled through the cities of Columbus, Cincinnati, and then finally reaching Louisville.
To keep Friday low-key for the kids, we decided to stop in Clarksville, Ind.
We decided to celebrate National Ice Cream Month early, which usually takes place in July, and found Zesto's Ice Cream. The outdoor stands best feature, besides the tasty soft serve cones, was good prices. We got baby cones, which was just enough to cool down in the 90 degree heat.
Finding a good book isn't easy sometimes, but the Green Tree Mall in Clarksville offers many choices.
They have two book stores in the mall, Books-A-Million or Waldenbooks.
Books-A-Million, the third largest book retailer, according to their website, had a vast selection for all types of readers. Shoppers can enjoy Joe Muggs coffee shop and a Yogurt Mountain cafe if you get tired or hungry of reading all the titles.
The mall and Zesto's is all in the same area of East Lewis and Clark Parkway as well as Bass Pro Shop, the hunting and fishing chain.
My boys, especially my four-year-old loved the large aquarium as well as the hunting exercise, which children (or adults) can walk the different hunting stations to try to shoot the game targets such as turkey and deer. My son wanted to hit the mechanical lion that came out of the bush, but we didn't have any change.

I will be posting some other thoughts on Saturday and Sunday's trip in Santa Claus, Indiana this week.

Angela Gartner
AGartner@News-Herald.com

Garden gnomes inspire stories, concerns

2011-06-09T10:57:00.000-04:00

The Alice in Wonderland inspired gnome that a Mentor woman created for the Gnome and Garden exhibit opening Sunday at Holden Arboretum in Kirtland is filled with detail. Kelly Stamblesky-Smith says she had never painted on fiberglass before and the process gave her fits. She blogged about the work as she added little playing cards to the gnome's beard, placed a hookah in his hand and poised a caterpillar on his foot. You can read about her efforts at busylittleelf.blogpot.com.
That's also the name she works under selling here handcrafted ornaments and other creations on Etsy, the website that's been a boon for artists and crafters wishing to sell the things they make.
Kelly's story is just one of many among the artists who put their skills to work creating the 20 gnomes that will be the heart of this summer-long exhibit at the Holden Arboretum.
She knew about the widespread prank framed around stealing garden gnomes and taking their photo in places all around the world, then returning the gnome with the photos. The idea came from the 2001 movie "Amelie," which featured a globe-trotting gnome. "Although he is awkward to move, he only weighs about 40 pounds," she said.
When I asked the Holden Arboretum how it will protect its gnomes, I was told they'd each be firmly anchored in concrete buried underground.
The gnomes will be hidden among the arboretum's landscape features all summer then will go to their sponsors for display where they choose. Be sure to catch the Gnome and Garden show at the Arboretum in Kirltand.

Report cards A yields discount

2011-06-02T14:21:00.000-04:00

Punderson State Park in closeby Newbury makes a wonderful when time is short but an escape is needed. And if your student brings home a report card with A's bring it along and you'll get a discount on your lodge room.
The Ohio State Park Lodges’ discounts for kids' good grades is now in its third year. T The popular program, called Stays 4 A’s, allows students with A’s on their report cards to transform those A’s into lodge room discounts.

Each A is worth a discount of $10 off the published rate per room per night up to five A’s or $50. Families need only show their star students’ report cards at check-in to earn the discount. One report card per room may be applied for the discount, and families must present the original report card upon check-in.
It's in force at several state park lodges this summer and one of them will welcome its 1000th participant. That person will get a gift basket with a certificate for a future one-night stay at any Ohio State Park Lodge, products from the lodge gift shop, a free dinner with dessert for the pupil and his or her family and a complimentary lodge activity for the family. Activities vary and could include free use of bicycles, geocaching units and canoes or kayaks as well as tokens for game rooms or a round of golfget more information online at www.ohiostateparklodges.com and use the promo code “Stay4A.” Get more information at 1-800-282-7275.

Improve your gas mileage

2011-05-12T13:34:00.000-04:00

Here are some driving tips to help maximize your gas mileage this spring:
Drive consistently and carefully: Avoid braking hard or accelerating unnecessarily quickly. You waste gas each time you accelerate just to brake a few seconds later.
Do Your Research: Calculate how much a trip will cost in gas (you can use AAA’s gas calculator at http://fuelcostcalculator.aaa.com/) and then compare it to bus, train or air fares.
Cash not credit: Pay for gas with cash instead of charging it to a card, you’ll save a few cents per gallon. Sometimes you can buy gas cards at a discount on sites like Beezid.com.
Fill ‘em up: Check that your tires are inflated according to the manufacturer’s recommended pressure. By maintaining well-inflated tires, you ensure your car is getting better mileage than on under-inflated tires.
Invest in a GPS: Using a GPS cuts down on the chances of getting lost while driving to your destination which can waste time and gas.
The one minute rule: If you’re going to idle your car for more than a minute, it’s worth turning off the engine. If it’s going to be under a minute, just leave the car running.
The more, the cheaper: Try and carpool to destinations and split the costs of transportation costs.
Quality goes a long way: Make sure to have your car or motorcycle inspected before you take a road trip, it’ll save you money to fix anything that might need repairs before your trip instead of potentially breaking down on the road which can become a costly inconvenience.

Making clotted cream

2011-04-26T17:49:00.000-04:00

It's a staple for afternoon tea in England and can be found jarred at some high end grocers. But if you're hoping to have real clotted cream with the scones you'll be making to help you set the tone for watching the Royal Wedding on Friday, search out the heavy cream usually called whipping cream. Avoid the type labeled ultra-pasteurized because it probably won't work. And unless you really don't care one bit about calories, make just a small quantity. It's very very good on lots of things and so simple to make it would be really easy to overindulge. You'll find the scones recipe in Wednesday's Food story in the News-Herald, which is aimed at helping you celebrate the Royal Wedding in style, whether you're at home alone at the crack of dawn or having friends over to watch the nuptials at 6 a.m. Cleveland time. Start making it right away so it will be ready for eating by then.
The clotted cream can be stored in the fridge for three or four days.
Preheat oven to 180 degrees.
Pour whipping cream into a heavy-bottomed oven-safe pan. Choose a small pan so cream comes up one to three inches. Cover the pan and place in the oven. Leave it undisturbed for at least 8 hours until a thick yellow skin has formed over the cream. That skin is the clotted cream. Let the pan cool to room temperature then place the entire pan in the refrigerator for another 8 hours. Skim the clotted cream off the top and serve with scones. The remaining cream can still be used for baking.

Changes at Gavi's

2011-04-14T13:34:00.000-04:00

It was sad to learn that Gavi's Restaurant is closing so Dave and Mary Gromelski can devote their energies to their burgeoning catering business. But it makes sense when you hear them tell it. Everyone who knows them will remark on the fine hospitality they serve up and comment on how both are very hands-on managers, greeting guests and seeing to every aspect of the dining experience. Over the years they've also operated the food service at Andrews School, Lake Farmpark and done a lot of catering for weddings and fundraisers, fine tuning their efforts in that direction. Seven years ago when they became parents of daughter Sara one had to wonder how they would manage. Mary's mom came to live with them and has always spoken Italian to Sara, resulting in the girl being totally bilingual. A few years ago the Gromelskis opened Sara's in Gates Mills, naming it after their daughter and soon acquiring a whole new group of fans for their food.
But ther missed working together and in figuring out how to remedy that they decided to use Gavi's as a venue for parties and events and puit its kitechn at the center of the catering operation. It makes good sense from both a business and personal perspective.
I'm sure the restaurant will be packed with well wishers in the few weeks left before it closes.

I'm so honored

2011-04-12T11:31:00.000-04:00

Here's my news from the spring meeting of the Midwest Travel Writers Association, of which I've been a member since 1983. Those who follow my regular blogs got other aspects of these two stories last year.
I am so honored by these awards.

The News-Herald's Janet Podolak has won two travel writing awards from the Midwest Travel Writers Association. The honors were announced Saturday at the organization's spring meeting in Chicago.

In awarding an honorable mention to Podolak's "Say Bonjour to Something Different" Judge Cindy Richards, said "This two-part series gives a nice overview of the least populated corner of France with its donkey ride along the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail, boat ride along the Tarn River and a huge underground cave."

See that story at http://bit.ly/saybonjour.

Podolak's "Meet those sharing Adriatic Voyage" won an honorable mention in the competition's photojournalism category with Richards writing: "This piece about a trip aboard a wooden sailing ship off the coast of Croatia advertised it all — photos, text and video."

Find that story at http://bit.ly/adriaticvoyage.

Podolak, who has been with The News-Herald since 1973, lives in Mentor. In addition to Travel, she writes for the Food, Health, Religion and Community sections of The News-Herald.

Travel hassles could end with TSA redo

2011-03-29T18:07:00.000-04:00

There’s no doubt in anyone’s mind that airline travel has become a hassle.
Even I have joined the scores of regular travelers who are avoiding trips because of past experiences.
We’ve waited in long lines at security, shed our shoes and coats to go barefoot through screening, been patted down — sometimes quite intrusively, lost our carefully packed toiletries to the Transportation Security Administration and been patronized, delayed and made to feel like criminals.
A 2010 survey by Consensus Research found that Americans would take two or three additional flights a year, if not for the hassles. Those additional flights would add nearly $85 billion in consumer spending and 900,000 jobs to the U.S. economy.
The same research found that most Americans find the current system to be embarrassing, inconsistent and stressful. There have been no successful terror attacks since 9/11, but the system is neither cost effective nor efficient.
Asking if that’s the best we can do for a country who put a man on the moon, the U.S. Travel Association put together a blue ribbon panel to learn if there’s a better way. The panel included former top officials from the TSA, representatives from the airlines, airports, and security technology sectors; plus leaders who represent destinations and other businesses that rely on a functional air travel system. To make sure the voice of the traveler was represented, the U.S. travel Association canvassed travelers through opinion surveys and on the website www.YourTravelVoice.org, More than 3,000 recommendations were collected, some of which are reflected in the final report.
What has resulted are goals and the processes for attaining them that will likely begin to be implemented this year.
In doing away with the one-size-fits-all approach to screening, the system will adopt custom security tailored to risk assessment, to develop a seamless operation without duplication among the Transportation Security Administration, private contractors, the Department of Transportation, the Department of Homeland Security, Customs and Border Protection and International Civil Aviation Organization.
Risk assessment will take the place of rules made as a reaction to real or perceived attacks. Hardened cockpit doors were put on planes in response to the 9/11 attacks and liquids were restricted after an aborted attack on a U.S. bound aircraft in August 2006. Deployment of Advanced Imaging Technology at checkpoints was done as a reaction to the Dec. 25, 2010 attempted airline bombing.
Implementation of a Trusted Traveler program will refocus resources on the highest risk passengers. The voluntary, government run program would give swift passage through security without the removal of shoes to those willing to provide more information about themselves, who pass a criminal history records check, and present a biometric fingerprint or iris for matching to a database. The traveler would walk through an explosives detection device and pass a behavior expert trained to recognize behavior outside the norm. He or she would then go to the flight boarding area.
It’s likely that a fee might be applied to implementation of a Trusted Traveler program but fees might also be waived for frequent travelers and those holding other documentation for similar programs.
The majority of travelers could be eligible for that program, freeing Transportation Security Agency personnel for other areas.
Other changes those who fly may soon see would be the Department of Transportation issuing regulations that would allow one checked bag as part of basic airfare, instead of leaving that decision up to individual airlines.
The fees imposed for checked bags have caused travelers to carry on and wear more items, which, in turn, creates a backup at security and aboard flights.
Other changes would put the entire security area at the airport under the control of the TSA. Because each airport is slightly different and the space is shared with TSA among the airport itself and airlines. Confusing and even contradictory policies have resulted.
Nonpartisan leadership of TSA is another change in the offing. It would create a job with a five-year term spanning different presidential elections and make the job — and its policies — less political.
Chief among the goals for developing a better way of passenger screening and airline security is seeking input about how to develop a risk assessment based program. Employing a true risk management strategy is not about adding layers of security, the panel found.
The one-size-fits-all approach has, instead, resulted in increases of more than 70 percent in TSA’s budget, which in some years was even greater than that of the FBI.
The report calls for the immediate reinstatement of the Aviation Security Advisory Committee to enhance public engagement in the process and for the Department of Homeland Security to develop mechanisms for the sharing of research, and evaluation of explosives detection technology.
The report proposes well-thought-out and ingenious solutions to what most will agree has become a problem of increasingly aggravating proportions.
Read it at www.ustravel.org/betterway.

Winter of my discontent

2011-03-22T13:29:00.000-04:00

First let me apologize to those who have followed this blog. I've been in a funk, and haven't weighed in for quite awhile. This has, I fear, been the winter of my discontent with a general funk that began around Thanksgiving when a sweet acquaintance, Annie McSween was murdered in Mentor on the Lake. I knew Annie when her children were young and she lived next door to some other friends in Mentor Headlands.It had been many years since we'd spoken but she's the only person I know who had been murdered. My kids couldn't get home over Christmas and for the first year we didn't put up a tree. Until I spent a couple days with my daughter and grandson on the press cruise for Disney's new cruise ship I hadn't even realized what a funk I'd been in. Thankfully I work for good folks and no one has mentioned my absence from the blog scene. With the arrival of spring at 7:21 p.m. Sunday, my foul mood seemed to lift. I was with friends celebrating my birthday on that momentous occasion and suddenly I was back to normal. Eight of us actually witnessed an egg being stood on end at the exact moment spring arrived.
It's true, I swear.
Now I need to focus on doing some things I'd almost forgotten in the interim. That's what happens as you get older. Adding to my confusion is that things have changed here since my last blog. I'll start by uploading a video of the silly gnomes that soon will be popping up at Holden Arboretum. Click here to see it if this works
http://www.news-herald.com/articles/2011/03/12/life/nh3723333.txt

Day Four, Bordeaux Unravels

2011-01-13T20:45:00.001-05:00

7:45 a.m. came a lot faster than I anticipated. My stomach, it had seemed, was still settling from the 5 course meal the prior evening. But, like a moth to the flame, there I was, sleepy eyed and groggily staring out my front window at the energetic walkers below.
This morning, we took a guided tour of Bordeaux, learning about its history, famed monuments of the 18th century and the role of the Garonne River over the last several centuries. In a few short hours, I felt as though I’d cracked open an oyster, reveling in its pearl.
Bordeaux, at least in my mind, has made a very grand entrance on the map. If you’ve ever discovered a place not a lot of people are aware exists and feel a strange sort of kindling honor at knowing it’s there, privileged by the secret, then you may have a glimpse of what I felt today. Only, this isn’t a place that should be kept a secret, despite most people having at least heard of Bordeaux or seen its name on various wine labels.
I look forward to giving a crash course on its offerings in my final travel article, but on the more intimate, personal side of things, I must say, not only is its history in the wine industry abysmal, its past in royalty, revolution, various wars, its elaborate structures and aesthetic overhaul in the last decade is enthralling at times.
I found myself transported into another century at various intervals throughout the day, including the time we were able to wander off on our own, as our trip to Arachon fell through.
So, two press group members and I took to the streets of Bordeaux this afternoon, checking out the decorative arts museum as well as the resistance museum.
Both carried completely different energies, but inspired emotions across the spectrum in their own rites.
I also found myself engrossed in the flat stone streets and walkways beneath us. Their muted, calming colors of salmon, faded indigo, speckled gray and creams captivated me.
Not to mention the various scents that filled my nose, tickling my taste buds as we walked past several cafes, bistros, boutiques and antique shops.
Once again, I found myself shopping. I just couldn’t help it. At one point, I was drawn to a particular diamond shaped ring with an aquamarine center stone in an antique setting. I wouldn’t stop staring at it and tried to talk myself out of getting it, but succumbed to peer pressure. Carla and Marybeth, both in the press group, told me to live a little. It was only, after all, $44 Euro, which equates to the $60 mark in U.S. dollars.
So I did. I lived a little.
The evening wound down with a brief trip back to the hotel where I sadly began packing my bags … or rather, shoving as much as I could into every nook and cranky of my suitcase and duffle bag. I then decided I wanted to just roam. To have no orientation. To just be here.
I walked outside into the 50 degree weather, past the softly illuminated carousel, past the breathtaking Monument Aux Girondins and finally around to the Garonne River.
I can’t wait to explain the water mirror designed in front of the regal, majestic buildings overlooking the river near our hotel.
The feel, movement and pace of this city and its people are quite different from Paris as well, creating an interesting balance I will also elaborate on.
Our evening unraveled with dinner at a cozy restaurant called the Le Plat à Oreilles. I purposely ate half portions of the other courses just to save room for the chocolate drenched, vanilla ice-cream filled puff dessert.
But, alas, those stories are to be continued at much greater depths. It is, after all, 2:22 a.m. here and I’ve got another early morning ahead of me.
Yet … as I shake my head, staring out my window at the Grand Theatre, crowned with statues of muses and three goddesses, I find myself wishing I’d never wake from this dream.

-- Cassandra Shofar
CShofar@News-Herald.com

Day Three: Bordeaux

2011-01-12T19:46:00.002-05:00

My alarm went off at 5:45 a.m. this morning and with it came a wistful exhale and soft groan. It wasn’t just the fact that it was so early and I had only gotten a few hours sleep. It was the knowledge that within a couple hours, I would have to quell my time in Paris and say au revoir to its never sleeping streets, cozy cafes, picturesque buildings and of course, the Eiffel Tower.
So, as I did the morning prior, I got up and ambled to the window, opened it up to the terrace and stood outside for a few minutes, forlornly transfixed on the street washers cleaning the sidewalks. It was as though they were created in that moment solely to illustrate my melancholy musings.
On the other hand, I was excited to get to Bordeaux, a place no one in our press group had ever been and a place that isn’t high on the tourist radar at the moment, giving it an air of mystery … we didn’t know quite what to expect. So, we boarded the Rail Europe and within a few hours, made it to Bordeaux and our hotel, the Regent Grand Hotel Bordeaux.
I’ve been trying to come up with the words to describe this inordinate structure, which is located in the main section of Bordeaux across from the Grande Theatre. The moment I set foot inside, a faint scent of gardenias charmed my senses.
The hotel itself was once a smaller building, but over the last decade, was connected with four other buildings to form the elaborate, expansive presence that it is now. Nothing in the city compares to it, according to one of our tour guides.
My room – adorned with lavish cream, robin’s egg blue and burgundy hues along its walls and spiraled carpet – has a bathroom, another room with a marble tub and sink, the king-sized bed in the center with an enormous flat screen TV and a sitting room. The crimson couch is coupled with a marble topped, dark cherry wood dresser and elegant coffee table, a French window backdrop framed by luxurious curtains swooping down and pulled back with fringed ties, and overlooks the Grand Theatre.
Another common feature in both Paris and Bordeaux are softly lit and working carousels. In Paris, there was one on each side of the Eiffel Tower. Here in Bordeaux, there’s one to the right of the hotel. It took everything in me not to join its playful, archaic horses during their mesmerizing circular motion.
Today also marked the first day of a huge sale in both cities, which caused a flood of customers through the main shopping area in Bordeaux, Sainte-Catherine Street. But before any more shopping could be done, our group had a lunch at the Café l’Opéra before attending a wine tasting nearby.
I anticipated an overwhelming experience, but found the entire event very intriguing, educational and enjoyable … though it was interesting to take a sip of wine and then spit it out in order to appreciate its taste on the palate, or perhaps more importantly, to keep a “clear head” during tastings.
Afterward, I attempted to shop, but it wasn’t long before I become beleaguered by the constant waves of people, throbbing within every store like the pulse of a heartbeat. I felt as though I was back in the mall during Christmas Eve, yet sorely magnified. The wall- to-wall foot traffic and eager shoppers stole my breath.
This time, however, I made it back with a half hour to spare as the evening was topped off with a dinner at our hotel. The evening included five courses presented by renowned chef Pascal Nibaudeau, who was awarded a Star in the 2010 Michelin Guide within 10 months of working at the Regent.
I tried everything from a sour cream, cucumber and Brussels waffle with seaweed, to duck, scallops and truffles, as well as an organ of an animal I don’t want to fully know about with quail eggs and truffles.
Then, they brought out the lobster press, one of five ornate, silver lobster presses in the world in fact. And it was quite an interesting process to watch. However, at that point, I felt like I was filled to the brim.
Yet somehow, I was still able to make room for dessert. I couldn’t pass it up, not here, not in this place I may never have the chance to inhabit again.
It included an egg white plum entrée as well as a chocolate mousse and fruit sorbet. Every few minutes, I would lightly shake my head and repeat how completely awe inspiring the dinner was, not to mention the hotel itself. And many times, my sentiments were echoed by the others.
Prior to our elaborate banquet, we toured a few different suites of the hotel, including the royal suite where Tom Cruise stayed last year during the opening of his movie with Cameron Diaz, “Knight and Day.” Yeah, you better believe I sat right on that bed and had a picture taken …
But moving on, each room, designed by the famous French designer Jacques Garcia, was drenched in a different style, color scheme and pattern of sumptuous fabrics and designs. Between the rich chocolates, terra cottas, burgundies, lavenders and blues, I was immersed in them all with every step and breath that ensued.
However, when it’s all said and done, I really am having trouble finding the words to describe all that I saw today, but I hope to convey these musings on paper once my article takes shape.
All I can say right now is, I look forward, though with some bittersweet feelings, to my last full day on this trip tomorrow. We’ll be taking a tour of the city in the morning followed by lunch at Café Andree Putman and another train ride to the city of Arcachon by the beach.
Until then … adieu.

-- Cassandra Shofar
CShofar@News-Herald.com

Disney Dream, not France

2011-01-12T15:58:00.000-05:00

Francophile that I am, it's my colleague, Cassandra Shofar, who is blogging from France this week.
I've received a few emails and phone calls from regular blog readers asking why I'm not in Paris. If I could figure out how to be in two places at once and still keep up with the regular Food, Health and Religion stories for The News-Herald, I'd be there. But I'll be on the inaugural voyage next week of Disney's Dream from Cape Canaveral, Fla. so Cassandra is on this France trip.
Sounds to me like she's loving Paris, even in winter. Be sure to read her story in the Feb. 13 travel section.
Meanwhile, see Sunday's paper for a look at what's new in the Caribbean.
Janet Podolak

Day Two in Paris

2011-01-11T19:27:00.004-05:00

Day two, and I’m still floating in a dream. It’s currently 11:49 p.m. in Paris and I just got back from a dinner cruise on the Seine River.
The dinner portion included four courses, well, five technically as they serve their coffee as a course in and of itself.
Between the scallops served in a cream sauce, the farmhouse guinea fowl drenched in a wine-based Chateaubriand sauce and the chocolate/praline dessert, I feel as though I’ve become someone new, or perhaps I’ve just shed an inhibiting layer of skin. It’s more than just good food.
It’s this feeling of relishing every bite coupled with every individual sip of Chardonnay or Medoc. It’s letting this culture seep into my bloodstream and guide me. Slowly, as the evening went on, I felt myself unravel. Every moment, as our ship gently swayed and bobbed with the water, guiding us past the Eiffel Tower and under several elaborate, bowed bridges, I was coming undone.
It was as though I began to transform with each harmonious song in the background, with the man who quietly stood by our table, serenading us shortly after our first course was served; the talk of diversity in culture between our press group and the natives.
And yet I found myself continuously wanting to pinch my elbow to remind me this was real. Especially when, on the hour, the Eiffel Tower began to sparkle again, reflected off the water and onto the glass surrounding our boat. Once again, it elicited a gentle sigh I could not hold in.
But let’s back up a moment. Before all of this enchantment, I had been a panicked mess. You see, most of the places to visit in Paris are easily done if you know your way around the city, or, more specifically, the metro system.
Let’s just say, I was all good for the majority of the day. I woke up at 7:20 a.m. to the sound of rain. Sure, I was in Paris, but rain had the same effect it always does on me, not to mention the bed they put me in is a California King sized piece of heaven, so I had found myself momentarily tortured.
Nevertheless, the motivation of this city – and the fact that as soon as I opened the curtains to my terrace, I saw traffic and people out and about – gave me enough inspiration to hit the shower and enjoy a complimentary omelet and chocolate-filled croissant breakfast downstairs.
We met with the SNCF National Rail Operations Centre early this morning. If you’re not familiar, Rail Europe is a pretty big deal here. For example, you could get from Paris to Geneva, Switzerland in 3 and a half hours if you wanted to, but I’ll have more on that in my actual article.
Afterward, I visited the Louvre, though it was not open today. However, the Musée d'Orsay was opened, so I took advantage. While part of me was truly bummed the Louvre was closed (I didn’t get to see it the last time I was here either), another part of me is grateful. Orsay was amazing.
It was formerly a train station and its internal set-up definitely speaks to that, giving it a very obscure character that was magnetic, not to mention the intoxicating Jean-Léon Gérôme exhibit as well as Van Gogh’s section and both Édouard Manet and Claude Monet’s work. At times I found myself staring for minutes at a single painting, utterly lost, before taking a breath to regain myself and move on.
Then the shopping bug bit … and bit hard. I can tell you this much. If ever you come here and want to find some good deals, the left bank is where it’s at. The lovely quaint cafes strewn about for a quick snack or lunch break add an allure as well.
Then finally, Notre Dame. I choked back tears the moment I saw her. It was approaching sundown and I was due to be back at the hotel for dinner, but I couldn’t miss it. I just couldn’t.
It was different at night (the last time, we went in during the day). The overcast backdrop gave the gargoyles an edge and the stained glass windows, a melancholy glaze. And there was a service that actually began a few minutes after I entered, indicated with melodic bells and the smell of aged wood layered with incense. It filled my nose as I made my way around the expansive, glorious building.
But not long after, I knew I had to tear myself away from it and head back, which is when I took the metro on the left bank instead of crossing the bridge back to the Louvre on the right. Suffice it to say, I popped up on the left bank by the Eiffel Tower and had a bit of a disoriented, semi-anxious ridden adventure getting back to Le Dokhan.
But, feet screaming in agony, I made it. Too bad this press trip didn’t include a write up about massage services …
Nevertheless, the momentary freak-out was worth it. Anyhow, I better tie this one up. It is currently 12:59 a.m. here and I have to up at 5:50 a.m. to be ready for our Rail Europe train ride to Bordeaux.
Until next time … au revoir.

-- Cassandra Shofar
CShofar@News-Herald.com

Day One In France

2011-01-10T18:22:00.004-05:00

The plane ride was rough, no doubt. A five-hour layover in Newark and six-hour flight on AirFrance. Yet here I am, in Paris again.
And completely breathless.
Today marked the first of my six-day press trip to France. I have a full day in Paris tomorrow (Tuesday) before being whisked off by a Rail Europe train to Bordeaux.
It’s been six years since I was last in this city. It had bewitched my heart then, haunted me with every year that passed and seemed to beg for my return. So when the opportunity arose, I couldn’t hesitate.
But now … now I find myself more taken with every curve of architecture, every antiquated piece of history, every bite of savory food and sip of aged wine, than I ever thought possible.
The other women I’m traveling with can’t help but giggle every time we passed the Eiffel Tower today, which is right near our hotels, the Radisson Blu Le Metropolitan and Le Dokhan. For every time we pass I find myself in awe, lips slightly ajar, whipping my camera out yet again as though I can’t quite get enough pictures of her intricate layers and metallic weavings.
As we drove from the airport in a taxi to the Le Dokhan, we passed the Arc de Triomphe and I shook my head in disbelief. Could I really be here right now, driving over cobblestone roads to a hotel that is over 100 years old?
Yet there I was, being escorted up to the fifth floor by an elevator that was created out of an old Louis Vuitton wardrobe trunk. The wallpaper was still scratched and worn from years of wear and tear, giving it character the hotel decided to keep.
After passing out for an hour and getting a tour of each hotel – the Le Metropolitan being renovated to a much more modern style compared to the Le Dokhan – I felt like the media relations manager and other coordinators had read my mind by putting me in the Le Dokhan.
Its empire furnishings and 18th century décor in the bar and dining area, not to mention its posh, yet cozy and soft atmosphere in its business suite, are just a few reasons I’m enamored of this charming hotel. But enough about that, after all, I must save some things for my travel article.
Once we had champagne cocktails, complements of the Le Dokhan, other women in our group invited me out to dinner to top the long, jet-lagged day off.
We walked across the Seine River, past the Eiffel tower – then sparkling feverishly at random and accented by an ethereal crescent moon – and found ourselves at the la Fontaine de Mars restaurant.
One hint to the relevancy of this quaint, left-bank bistro: President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama dined there when they were in Paris last year.
My course included an omelet entrée with chocolate truffles. It may sound strange, but it was a balanced savory taste and potent with flavor in every bite. My salmon and spinach main course was equally delectable as was the crème brulee, which seemed to melt into my very mouth with each spoonful. I was lost in a way I haven’t been in a long time … and it felt good.
The streets are more relaxed, less crowded in the off-season. The staff is also more noticeably at ease and peaceable, much more so than they were during the summer 6 years ago. And sure, it’s January, the weather is chilly and I’m in my winter gear.
Yet, none of that matters right now, because I’ve answered a call. And as the jet-lag threatens to take me over tonight, I can fall asleep with a trace of a smile on my lips.

-- Cassandra Shofar
CShofar@News-Herald.com

Goodbye to Croatia

2010-12-10T15:12:00.001-05:00

Sunset over the Adriatic is sublime.

Sunday's News-Herald Travel section will include the last of my Croatia stories, written from my September experiences aboard the Romanca and on a few of Croatia's islands in the Adriatic . I shared that voyage aboard the 100-foot sailing ship with 12 others, some of whom you've likely seen in the videos and photos that have accompanied my blogs here and stories that appeared in earlier travel sections.

The ship was chartered and the experiences organized by ROW Adventures, an Idaho company founded and run by Peter Grubb who helped escort us. You will meet him and some of the others in a separate story that runs on Sunday. That was written because I always wonder what kinds of people take trips like these and guessed that readers might wonder the same. My shipmates were a curious, outgoing, educated and well traveled bunch of people who helped to make the voyage very special. We laughed, played charades, talked food, exchanged stories, shared recipes and wine preferences, and even commiserated over sore muscles after especially challenging hikes. Only one of our number was of Croatian heritage, a fact which surprised me.

If you've been reading my stories, you know that I was amazed again and again over the treasures of Croatia - from its beauty and history to its food, people, wines and sea life. It was indeed a trip of a lifetime.

Dinner is served

A courtyard inside Diocletian's Palace in Split leads to a private home.

An old woman follows an ancient stone wall to her garden.

Muslim Q&A coming to Kirtland

2010-12-01T16:30:00.000-05:00

A pervasive atmosphere of fear has begun to affect my stories, notably one intended for the News-Herald's Religion page on Saturday. It was an interview with the two Muslims who will be speaking on Sunday at East Shore Unitarian Universalist Church in Kirtland. Both are proud U.S. citizens and work with interfaith organizations to explain elements of Islam and answer questions from their audiences. It is their hope that with knowledge and solid information many misconceptions can be put to rest. But they are afraid of being targeted by hate-mongers, especially in the light of some current events.. At the conclusion of our fine interview they asked that their full names not be used.

Affi and Sahid

That's something The News-Herald does not permit. It's a policy rooted in the belief that readers have the right to reach their own conclusions about what others say. Attribution of statements to those who make them also causes the speaker to choose his or her words carefully, and hopefully accurately, knowing they will have to live with them once the story has run..We don't use just first names, fake names or run stories with nameless sources in them.

Until I began to read the anonymous comments on the online versions of stories the paper has published, I hadn't appreciated how a cloak of anonymity causes some people to say cruel things. Perhaps that very anonymity is one of the reasons for the widespread fear that seems to be everywhere these days.

One of my Muslim subjects once experienced a death threat against her then 8-year son after she spoke out. And both know how easily an address can be found on the internet once a name is entered. .

One of the points both made was the recent tendency by many to equate Islamic principals with the words and actions by various governments of the Middle East. Both came here from Iran several decades ago, a country where women had the right to vote, own property and be paid equally long before our own equal rights amendments. The woman made the point that the wife of the Prophet Mohammad was a business owner and the prophet worked for her. "He married the boss," she said. The rights afforded women in Islam are believed descended from that fact, she said. A woman who inherits money or property from her father or mother keeps that property and never has to share it with her husband. The local woman is a widow after a longtime happy marriage to an Irish Catholic.She's retired now but often volunteers as a translator from Farsi, the most widely spoken Persian language and her native tongue. The man is married, the father of a young child and works as an an engineer. Both came to this country as students.

When they are introduced to the audience at East Shore Unitarian Church only their first names will be used. Their fear goes with them even when they speak to those coming the hear what they say..

The session follows a noon vegetarian luncheon at the church, 10848 Chillicothe Road in Kirtland. Reservations for that are needed by today and the cost is $5. Call 440-256-3400. The presenters, members of the Unity Mosque in Strongsville, will not cover the history of Islam but instead will discuss how they see their religion, addressing why they have been hesitant to speak out in today’s world of 24-hour news showing the radical side of Islam.
It should be a real eye opener.

Adventure Tuesday

2010-11-23T12:48:00.000-05:00

Peter Grubb poses with a statue of Petar Hektorovic, an early Croatian poet.

Peter Grubb, founder of ROW International, was the genius behind my September voyage among the Adriatic islands off Croatia . For nearly 30 years he's forged relationships all over the world and has developed many unusual trips like this one. Whether the destination is Croatia, Jamaica, Turkey, Brazil, Egypt, France, Ecuador or Algeria his guests are connected with the people and culture of places they visit. And through every trip runs a commitment to honor and respect those cultures and to travel responsibly. Those who follow The News-Herald's Travel Section will get to know Peter and a little more about his company on Dec. 12.

Meanwhile, in quirky take on Black Friday, Peter has established Adventure Tuesday, a day on which some of the adventures offered by ROW will be deeply discounted. Most of the trips are on or near the water - no surprise from a guy who got starte3d in the business with white water rafting trips in Idaho and Montana.

Here's how Adventure Tuesday works. Email Peter to get on his newsletter list. (Peter@Rowadventures.com) Monday night you'll learn about the deals that will be available first thing Tuesday. Then get on the phone first thing Tuesday and call toll-free 800-451-6034. Because he's in Idaho, "first thing" will be noon here or 9 a.m. Pacific Time. First come, first serve is the protocol and messages don't count.

Good luck. Perhaps you'll be the one sailing among the Croatian islands in spring.

Octopus, oysters and creatures of the briny Adriatic

2010-11-11T11:29:00.003-05:00

An octopus is pulled from the sea. See it wiggle on the video.

Shipmate Dave Legge helps open oysters so we can taste them.

Fish in Croatia are served with their heads intact, even when they have an overbite.

Shipmate Wendy Andary braces herself for a raw oyster

Just before joining the Romanca we stopped at a tiny roadside stand in Mali Ston, which is known for its oysters. There, within sight of the buoys that marked where they were harvested, we tasted briny oysters fresh from the sea. A few miles away we arrived in Ston, where salt continues to be harvested although its economic importance is not nearly as vital as it was before refrigeration when it was the world’s major preservative.

Our guide Josko shows us salt that still is an economic mainstay in Ston.

The salt stores were so important in Ston that in 1333 a 3-1/2-mile-long wall was built around the town — becoming the longest fortification in Europe. The walls, which still stagger over the mountainside, were the staging route for a running competition the Saturday of our visit.
Being on the sea meant, of course, that we had plenty of seafood with lots of octopus and squid served at our meals. Throughout Croatia, fish are served with their heads still attached — an experience that is shocking to many Americans but taken in stride by Europeans.

At port stops the ship’s crew members could often be spotted dropping a line off the seawall where the ship tied up. The water everywhere was so clear one could see the creatures living beneath its surfaces. On two occasions we saw octopuses pulled up.
One night our chef Ivo Boshinjak served a truly amazing black risotto, which was honestly one of the best dishes I’ve ever tasted. Turns out he’s worked on several islands in the French Caribbean and once was a partner at a restaurant on the Dutch island of Bonaire, where my brother had a home for 12 years. We concluded that I’d probably eaten his cooking before — another of the astonishing coincidences that followed me from the planning stages to the conclusion of this amazing voyage. If you’re interested in booking a trip like this one next year, contact ROW Adventures, 800-451-6034; www.ROWAdventures.com

Figs to pomegranates, olives to oskorusa ripen in Croatia's sun

2010-11-09T15:26:00.009-05:00

href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_uF4dnbkmdWQ/TNmxWAsWExI/AAAAAAAACEg/igc1a9a9bxk/s1600/figpick.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"> The figs weren't quite ripe but we passed plenty of them during our hikes on Croatia's islands.
Mediterranean fruits and vegetables were commonly encountered during our harvest season voyage among the Adriatic islands off the coast of Croatia. Even though we set sail from Dubrovnik in the middle of September, when tomatoes were at their delicious peak, there were lots of things not yet ready to be picked. Olives and figs still had a few weeks, at least, before becoming ripe enough to use but since I’m not familiar with growing either, I’m not a good judge. We saw both fruits growing abundantly as we passed farms and gardens on our hikes.

Every morning on board the ship, our chef put out fresh ripe tomatoes layered with freshly made mozzarella cheese and drizzled it with the most delicious olive oil. Eggs with the almost-orange yolks produced by free ranging chickens also were a part of every breakfast. There was not a single meal aboard the Romanca that overlooked the wonderful produce that surrounded us on land and in the sea.

This is what the local market vendor called an oskorusa

My love of outdoor markets was easy to indulge in villages we visited. At one of them, I discovered a fruit the vendor called oskorusa, a small reddish brown fruit resembling a small apple but tasting much different. The vendor gave me a taste and it wasn’t like anything I’d tasted before. I didn’t buy any but wish I had since the lore surrounding it claims it improved concentration and memory and aids in digestion.

It almost tastes like an apple.

Luscious olive oils were sold from farmhouses found along our hiking routes.

We also were able to engage in an olive oil tasting at one market, where the grower had oils arranged from mild to more peppery tastes. Croatian olive oils have gained some real acclaim among foodies in recent years and it was quickly apparent why. Several of my shipmates bought olive oils to pack and take home with them.

These grapes were among the few that weren't yet picked during our mid-September voyage among Croatia's islands.

Grapes were being picked by hand — usually by women — everywhere we went. Most Croatian vineyards are small — 10 to 15 acres— and only Grgch Winery buys from several growers to make wines. Grgch Hill Estate Wines in Napa Valley are extraordinary wines developed by Mike Grgch who moved there from Croatia years ago.

A decade or ago he returned to help Croatian winemakers develop their wine industry and has created some remarkably good wines by making wine blends from Croatian grapes. Research he did has pretty well proven that the Zinfandel grapes so successfully grown in California today originally came from Croatia.

This pomegranate certainly looks ready to pick.

Pomegranates hung heavy on their trees, growing redder and riper in the warm Croatian sunshine. Although the part of Croatia we visited is on about the same parallel as Rome it seemed hotter and drier than that Italian city. It was a very pleasant dry heat and not at all uncomfortable. At night it cooled down beautifully and the Romanca only needed to run its air conditioning a few times at night. We all had porthole style windows in our rooms and I’d packed a battery-operated clip-on fan that brought the cool outside air into my room, which was below decks. It was important, however, to remember to close the port hole window once we got underway or risk bringing the Adriatic waves onto my bed.

Life's a Beach Vol. 3

2010-11-07T22:51:00.001-05:00

They have a sense of humor at Alligator Alley.

Wesley Moore has more than 200 American alligators at his refuge in the Alabama Gulf Coast. Visitors can hold a young gator (they feel like wet shoes...)

or watch Moore feed them.

But the greatest pleasure to be had in Alligator Alley is to watch these cold-blooded carnivores act like themselves. Granted, in the autumn, that means a lot of lethargic sunbathing.

I also had the opportunity to kayak in Graham Creek today, a brackish creek that leads into Wolf Bay. A north wind and low tide combined to make the water so shallow that one of my cohorts could see a stingray swim across the floor of the creek.

Mullet (a freshwater fish common to the area) would often jump from the water, but I wasn't quick enough to photograph it despite my best efforts.

-Jason Lea, JLea@News-Herald.com

Life's a Beach Vol. 2

2010-11-06T23:07:00.000-04:00

I love photographing glass blowers. It's difficult to make someone look cool when they're painting or sculpting because the physical process tends to be subtle.

But glass blowers, they're kinetic. They wield blow torches, long rods, clamps and sand that's hot enough to melt your face. It's difficult to not make that look cool.

I visited the Orange Beach Art Center on the Alabama Gulf Coast and got to watch visiting artist Sam Cornman work.

And what could make this moment of artistic creation more photogenic? How about adding an adorable child or four?

I also went on a dolphin-watching cruise. Captain Bill Mitchell of Cetacean Cruises promises you will see dolphins on his tours. He can do this because the bottlenose dolphins of Wolf Bay are homebodies and will live most of their lives in a 10-mile area.

Granted, just because you see a dolphin (and we saw a lot) doesn't mean you'll snap a good photo of them.

Captain Bill is also a repository of useful dolphin facts. For example, male dolphins don't help raise the babies. But females will have another female that acts as a "nanny." She helps with every aspect of the child rearing, even lactating so the child can also feed from it.

Final thought: King Neptune's is an unassuming shrimp shack that borders a Domino's Pizza, but it has the best gumbo I've ever eaten in my life. It also has some stellar Royal Red shrimp...

and a dangerously delicious fried cheesecake.

Yeah, fried cheesecake.

-Jason Lea, JLea@News-Herald.com

P.S. Today is the 50th anniversary for two of the journalists with me on this press trip.

Happy anniversary Susan and Marshall. Keep shinin', you crazy diamonds.

Life's a Beach Vol. 1

2010-11-06T08:43:00.000-04:00

Once again, Janet Podolak has graciously allowed staff writer Jason Lea to borrow her blog while he visits the Alabama portion of the Gulf Coast.

The Gulf Coast oil spill was a calamity, no doubt. It flowed for three months, released about 185 million gallons of oil into the Gulf of Mexico and, lest we forget, killed 11 and injured 17.

But what hurt Alabama portion of the Gulf Coast even more than the oil spill was the perception of the oil spill.

Kim Chapman, the public relations manager from Kim Chapman, said from May to August (normally, their peak season) tourism business dropped 41 percent. It did not matter if they had actual oil flowing in or just the occasional tarball.

Chapman said most of the struggles with encroaching oil were finished by the end of July, but people still avoided the area, expecting to find petroleum-choked beaches.

"We went to YouTube to show people. Every morning we would shoot video of the beach and have it uploaded by every afternoon, so people could see what it actually looked like," she said.

Chapman and I spoke in Dinner at LuLu's, a restaurant owned by Jimmy Buffett's younger sister, Lucy. We ate fried oysters and blackened shrimp. (Both caught in the gulf, both tasty.)

(Only fried oysters, French fries and jalapeno hush puppies are pictures. The blackened shrimp got eaten before I could photograph it.)

The restaurant also features live music...

and this beauty. It's called a three-layer margarita. It's lime, strawberry and tangerine flavors tiered in a single glass.

I only arrived in Alabama yesterday evening, so I didn't have much of a chance to see anything but LuLu's, but here's the view from the condominium (provided by Young's Suncoast Realty) in which I am staying.

-Jason Lea

P.S. I love flying through the Charlotte airport for one reason. It has a Jamba Juice. I became addicted to Jamba smoothies when my wife spent a summer in New York. Sadly, the closest one to Cleveland is in Indianapolis.

Trust me, it's not a smoothie. It's Jamba Juice.

Sunny Hvar for lace, jetsetters, lavender

2010-11-04T15:43:00.002-04:00

The 100-foot Romanca, a wooden sailing ship, was our home during our Adriatic voyage among Croatia's pristine islands.

We head for Hvar , sunniest place in Croatia, aboard the ship's dinghy

This map shows our three port calls on the lovely Croatian island of Hvar.

Hvar Island, the sunniest place in all of Croatia, is a study in contrasts.
Most “discovered” among the Adriatic islands offshore between Split and Dubrovnik, it’s easily reached on routes plied by the Jadrolina ferry.
The scents of lavender and fresh baking reached us even before our ship’s dinghy carrying us ashore had reached the landing. To my mind, the salt air acts in much the same way as winter does at home: a deprivation of scents makes those encountered more profound.
Those of us from the Romanca felt little kinship with the elegant beautiful people who make Hvar’s shops, bars and waterfront strolls a see-and-be-seen destination. It reminded me of Monaco and other glamor-drenched towns along the French Riviera.
We’d been together aboard the 100-foot wooden sailing ship for a week and had bonded into our own small community of explorers. We ogled the Seven Sins motor yacht moored nearby and, once back aboard, one of us Googled the Seven Sins to learn that it, too, was a charter, going for 129,500 euros (about $200,000!) a week.
But we had UNESCO World Heritage Site lace on our minds. Watching the clock, we headed uphill to visit the lace-making nuns at a Benedictine convent established here on Hvar in 1664. We needed to get there before noon because the nuns shut their doors to the public then.
In the early 1800s as the sisters taught domestic skills to young women of the town, they developed a unique handcraft framed around the raw materials available to them. They figured out how to make lace from the dried strands of agave leaves — a widespread succulent plant growing wild throughout the island. Agave is, in fact, the same plant from which tequila is made in Mexico, and I’d seen its tall flower, which blooms every hundred years, used as a Christmas tree on several Caribbean islands.
The nuns harvest the fat green, thorn-edged leaves of the tropical lilies and carefully draw the fiber from them to make thread. The technique, along with their lace-making skills have been passed down through generations of sisters. The patterns are of their own creation.

This lace, created by nuns in a Hvar convent, is crafted from fibers drawn from the fat leaves of agave, the same plant from which tequila is made in Mexico.

The lace and the tools used to make it are seen carefully preserved under glass in a small one-room museum. It is also sold by the nuns.
Our shipmate whipped out her credit card as she approached the small counter where handmade lace items were displayed. A small sign noted the lace is not to be washed, dry cleaned or ironed. It’s obviously lace meant to be framed, not used on chair arms as my grandmother did with hers.
A brief conversation ensued as the clock began to strike the noon hour. Reluctantly, it seemed, our shipmate put her credit card away and we prepared to leave, shepherded through the large arched stone door by the stern-faced sister.
“The prices for the lace start at about $700 and go up from there,” our colleague explained. “I love the lace but not that much.”

Jet setters and other beautiful people stroll the Hvar waterfront.

The day was heating up, so a few of us stopped for a cool drink along the waterfront promenade, where we watched the beautiful people. The shoppers among us meandered among shops and stalls and everyone bought lavender, which grows all over Hvar and several other Adriatic islands.
We wandered up to the other side of town, where a guided tour had been arranged for us at a 15th-century Franciscan monastery.
A striking Last Supper painting filled a full wall of the monks’ refectory.
“The artist, who was sick, was thrown ashore from a passing ship when its sailors feared he would infect them,” our guide said. “The monks took him in and nursed him back to health early in the 17th century. He was so grateful he did this painting for them.”
The courtyard outside is presided over by a nearly 500-year-old cypress tree also believed planted by the same artist.

James A Garfield 's connection with Poe

2010-10-21T10:56:00.000-04:00

James A. Garfield enjoyed reading Edgar Allan Poe’s poems and stories and the Memorial Library at his Lawnfield in Mentor has several of Poe’s works, along with books by Dickens and other writers of Garfield’s time.
Garfield’s widow, Lucretia, had the library built after her husband’s untimely death and it became the country’s first presidential library. The National Park Service, which now operates the home, has engaged Baltimore based actor David Keltz to perform more than four hours of Poe’s works on Thursday. Park Ranger Joan Kapasch, who has enjoyed an almost lifelong connection with the Garfield property, explained that all programming at the James A. Garfield Historic Site must have a Garfield connection. Several of Poe’s books are on the library’s shelves.
Poe, who has been widely credited with creating both the horror and science fiction genres of literature was reportedly the first American to earn his living from the written word. He served as a book reviewer and magazine editor in Richmond, Philadelphia and New York and had a difficult life, battling illness and the temptations of alcohol most of his days. He considered himself as a poet and once described “The Raven” as the most perfectly constructed poem ever written.
Sunlight streamed into the Garfield library as we entered, reflecting the brilliant fall colors outside the windows onto the furnishings and shelves of books belonging to the 20th U.S. President. Kapasch explained that the books, all originals, are not usually available for up close looks since almost everything found there can also be accessed in public libraries.
Kapasch carefully donned gloves to handle the century-old books and opened the first volume to a faceplate displaying the initials of Lucretia Garfield. The book also carried a likeness of Poe, an early photograph in a volume dated to 1880, a year before Garfield took office.
Keltz, who has committed Poe to memory, will include classic horror tales when he performs at 6 and 8 p.m. on Thursday. Only 40 people can be accommodated at each performance, but tickets remain available at $15 a person to those who reserve them at 440 255-8722.
Click to see video of Poe works in Garfield's library

Adriatic's Blue Grotto on Bisevo

2010-10-20T16:11:00.001-04:00

Here's the harbor at Vis town, the main village on Vis.

Sunset on the Adriatic is sublime

Vis (#4) was an overnight cruise from Korcula.

Click here for video of the Blue Grotto

You really have to wonder who first thought of squeezing a tiny boat through a small hole in the rocks next to the sea on Bisevo, a little island off Vis in the Adriatic. The grotto, or cave, beyond the entry opens into a fairly large space where the water is an eerie blue color from sunlight that shines through the rock and water into the grotto.
Several of my well-traveled Romanca shipmates thought it was similar to the famed Blue Grotto on the island of Capri, near Sorrento in Italy. Personally I thought the other Blue Grotto is vastly overrated and a true tourist trap, mobbed with people who paid way too much for the “pleasure” of squeezing into boats that in turn squeezed into a tiny opening to see a cave filled with a blue light.
Vis, itself, is among the more remote of the Adriatic islands off Croatia. It was an overnight cruise for us to reach it. Believed settled in Neolithic times, the island was the home of the Greek Dionysis the Elder four centuries before Christ. It was from Vis that he ruled the other Adriatic islands claimed by Greece. Most of its people, fleeing pirates, left in the 1400s. Because remote Vis was a headquarters for Tito and a base for the Yugoslav army from the 1950s to 1989, it was off-limits and its isolation preserved it from development. Today people come because it is one of the sleepiest and less populated Adriatic islands.
The Blue Grotto on Bisevo, a 20-minute cruise from the harbor at Komiza on Vis’s west coast, is still not exploited as is its counterpart in Italy. Because the eerie light only shines into the grotto between 10 a.m. and noon and the sea is calm enough for entry only in the summer months, those who want to go inside must go then. Since we were on a charter organized by Row Adventures, our host Peter Grubb paid the fee for the small boat we boarded and the admission to the grotto. That’s one of the great advantages to being on a charter — you’re not nickled and dimed to death since most things are included when you pay upfront. But that means I can’t tell you what the admission cost to the Blue Grotto is. My guess is that it was included with the boat ride since those of us from the Romanca were the only ones on our small boat. A young man standing in another boat near the grotto entrance was collecting the price of grotto admission from those arriving in dinghies from other, smaller yachts. I’ll email this blog to Peter and perhaps he’ll reply with an answer.
If you click on the blue line at the beginning of this entry you’ll be able to view the video I shot. It shows how unearthly the light in the grotto really is but it also shows that it was pretty crowded and noisy inside, even though we visited in mid-September, at the end of the high season. It’s one of those amazing things in nature that I hope doesn’t become so popular it’s spoiled. I think wonderful experiences like this are best enjoyed with reverence.

Lavanderman, sipping grappa, hearing Hektorovic

2010-10-14T09:59:00.001-04:00

Lavanderman is a Croatian superhero who enjoys the pleasures of life.


We were welcomed to this tiny bar/restaurant with tastes of grappa in a dozen flavors

Lavender is sold everywhere on Hvar and its scent follows folks.

Perhaps it was the grappa.
One night on the island of Hvar it came to me. Although I'm the wrong gender, for Halloween, I’d like to go as either Peter Hektorovic or as Lavanderman.
As in most Catholic countries, Halloween is not observed in Croatia with costumes and trick or treating.
But Croatians among our readers may know Hektorovic, the national poet of Croatia who lived around the time of Shakespeare and wrote about his life and times in a style resembling that of a script.
Those of us aboard the Romanca visited his 16th century home in Stari Grad on the island of Hvar. Hektorovic directed its construction over 40 years and had truisms inscribed in the stone in various places. His outhouse-like toilet was indoors, not far from a door, and above it in Croatian he had inscribed “Know what you are and be proud.”
We heard a partial reading of one of his works, the story of a three-day trip taken by a fisherman in the same town. It was eloquent and insightful. What’s more, it was the first-ever travel writing in Croatia, so perhaps it’s understandable why Hektorovic is a man close to my heart. Hear an excerpt on the video linked to this blog.
Lavanderman is something else again.
He’s a superhero, Croatia style, a cartoon character attired in a skin tight suit of lavender, complete with a cape and a white Vespa. He carries a sprig of the fragrant herb that grows everywhere and in the storyline he's unable to leave the island.
When our ship first docked in Hvar city, on the other side of the same island, the fragrance of lavender drifted out to us before we even stepped ashore. It’s grown everywhere and processed by the islanders into sachets, oils, potions, skin creams and even grappa. Stands all along the harbor sell it and its fragrance follows you while on Hvar.
Lavanderman himself is a play on words since lavander is the mixture of wine and water that’s drunk by many. The artist who draws Lavanderman has turned the graphic comic book into a collectible, creating one each year.
Our guide Josko Zovic took us to Jurin Podrum, a small restaurant operated by a friend who brought out a dozen varieties of grappa for us to try. As she poured them for our table, the four of us heard about Lavandar man — who must be seen to be believed. Our hostess served small glasses of grappas flavored by plum, lavender, green tea, peach and a few other flavors along with glasses of water. We each were given a straw to insert into the liquid. Placing an index finger over the top of the straw, we were able to create a vacuum to suck up small amounts of each grappa for tastes, rinsing our straws between flavors.
Many know that grappa is a high alcohol eau de vie distilled from grape skins and seeds left in the wine press after the juice is removed to make wine. This fiery distillation comes in many styles and flavors and we were able to sample a few of them.
It was quite a night.
Click here to see Lavanderman, grappa sips

Disembarking to hike from Orebic to a seaman's church

2010-10-04T17:00:00.002-04:00

Anchovies wrapped around olives, top, were an appetizer our first night aboard the Romanca. It .gave us all a clue about the great food we'd be served here in Croatia.
We pass long abandoned ruins as we hike uphill along narrow footpaths.

Signs along the walking path tell you the time it will take to reach various destinations.

Chilling beneath the cypress trees after a hike from Orebic

The pretty town of Orebic, just opposite Korcula on Croatia’s Peljasec Peninsula, was where we took our first hike in Croatia. Our sailing ship, the Romanca, spent the night moored to another ship in the harbor at Korcula and departed just after breakfast for the 2.5 mile sail back to the mainland.
We had 12 passengers plus a crew of five on board and as we moored at the Orebic pier the Jadrolina ferry tooted its outrage. Apparently it was due to stop and we were in its way. The ferry, which has overnight berths, plies a regular route among the islands between Split and Dubrovnik — where we would be traveling throughout our week. We crossed paths with the ferry several different times and it looks like a fairly comfortable way to see the area.
After dropping us off in Orebic, the Romanca had to be on its way quickly to continue around the peninsula to pick us up at the end of our hike. We faced a 7 mile walk up Mount Ilija, which, as a flatlander, I viewed with some trepidation.
The narrow path we were following required a fairly sharp eye since there were loose stones and the occasional boulder the scramble over. We learned that the mountain protects the town from northern winds and allows Mediterranean plants to flourish, so despite skies threatening rain we were on our way uphill. The first half hour we passed by hillside homes, many with ripening pomegranates and olives among the fragrant lavender and rosemary in their landscapes. Some of them were built long ago by sea captains, who had a great fondness for the Lady of the Angels shrine at the top of the mountain. Tradition maintained that a ship pulling into Orebic would blow its horn and the church would ring its bell.
A local well at trailside beckoned several of us to fill our water bottles. It was hot and important to remain hydrated.
It was noon as we neared the church and its bells were ringing loudly. We took a few minutes to sit in the shade of the cypresses there to cool off and look out over the sea and to the harbor below before touring the museum.
Realizing that we still had about three miles to go — and that would be all downhill — I took pity on my arthritic knees and accepted a ride from the owner of a nearby cafe called Panorama to the village below.
It was there that I had my first local beer — a Karlovacko and learned to say “cheers” as “zivjeli” in Croatian. Before long the others in our hiking group joined us and soon the Romanca sailed into view, docking just after the second Jadrolina ferry of the day departed.
Click here to see our ship and the sights on our first hike

Fish in dubrovnik and along the Dalmation coast

2010-10-04T16:06:00.001-04:00

I’d reserved a taxi in advance since I knew I’d be jetlagged and somewhat spaced out upon my arrival in Dubrovnik. It was 1 p.m. Dubrovnik time but about 6 a.m. at home and I’d been awake most of the night flying across the Atlantic. The website www.taxiservicedubrovnik.com delivered just as it has promised. A driver was holding up my name as I exited the airport and before I knew it I was at the Hotel Vis and ready to pay him. I’d visited an ATM machine at the airport where I got 400 kuna (about $80), the local currency. Not yet used to the currency I paid him partly using euro, but he quickly corrected my mistake. “That’s way more than you owe me,” he said. “Better put away your euro or you’ll be spending it accidently.”
Meeting an honest man makes such a great first impression.
After a visit and walk around in Dubrovnik with Carol (see previous blog) from Richmond Heights, it was time for my dinner at Proto, which is known for its seafood. In the heart of Old Town, within the old city walls, it’s on a cobbled pedestrian street with other restaurants. The dinner was arranged by the local tourist office at my request so I could get up to speed on the local food. Josip Zuvela, a culinary professor at the hospitality school in Dubrovnik, explained that the cuisine is influenced by 400 years of rule from Venice.
Proto’s menu was in English as well as several other languages so understanding it was easy. Smoked tuna, one of the ingredients in cold platter I ordered as an appetizer is colloquially called “sea ham. The platter also included octopus and marinated anchovies, which were fresh and not at all salty.
I was told to expect to be served dory, and red mullet on my upcoming travels. The professor told me I would also be having fresh sardines on my voyage among the islands and he told me I’d see grapes being picked and find olives, figs and pomegranates ripening on trees. When he learned I’d be visiting Ston the professor told me the best oysters in the world are found there.
He left me with some recipes, including a Dubrovnik style tuna.
It’s made like this: First the fresh tuna is fried after being salted and rolled in flour. After it’s cooked, it’s removed from the pan. Sliced onion, garlic, parsley, bay leaf and rosemary are cookedin the same pan with 2 cups of water for 10 minutes, or until reduced. Sugar, pepper, wine vinegar and salt is added and the mixture is poured over the tuna and allowed to cool. The fish is served garnished with lemon slices and black olives.
Click here to see Dubrovnik's great fish

Dubrovnik now home for Richmonds Heights woman

2010-10-01T14:28:00.002-04:00

After Richmond Heights native Carol Sosa graduated from Euclid High School, she lived in several California cities, in Honolulu, and in Paris before moving permanently to Dubrovnik three years ago. Croatia is where her parents were born and she visited the country often during the 1980s but had to stop coming during the war in 1991. No matter where else she lived she dreamed of returning to Dubrovnik to live some day.
She married her beloved Ivo and they live just a few minutes’ walk from the walls of the Old City.
This beautiful city along the Adriatic coast also captured my heart when I visited the first time in 2006, so during my planning for this trip I visited the website www.tripadvisor.com where Carol answered many of the questions I posed. She’s not an official Dubrovnik guide but blogs at www.dubrovniktravelady.blogspot.com.
We got to know each other online and within an hour after I’d arrived, she met me in the lobby of the Hotel Vis.
As an expat, she’s learned lots of things about Dubrovnik and gladly shares them with others. We became acquainted over coffee on the hotel’s seaside patio a delightful spot in the shade of an ancient olive tree.
Because she’s over 65 she travels for free on the city’s bus system, but I bought a ticket for 10 kuna at the hotel front desk. That’s a little less than $2.
We rode for 20 minutes to the Pile Gate, one of the entrances through the city walls into Old Town. That’s pronounced Pee-Lay, I quickly learned when I bought the bus ticket at the front desk and the clerk there didn’t know what I was talking about.
“Everyone here speaks English,” she said. “I try to speak Croatian most of the time but I’m still known as ‘that American lady’ because my accent gives me away.”
Life in Dubrovnik is fairly typical of other European cities, she said. One shops every day and gets bread, freshly harvested produce and fish fresh from the sea. “We have socialized medicine here but since I didn’t pay into the system I’m not eligible. My husband has it and I pay less than $100 a month for good health care.
She said it is very difficult to secure a good apartment at a reasonable price because Dubrovnik is so popular with visitors. “We have a nice one-bedroom apartment with a small yard just a few blocks from the Old Town and we pay about $500 a month,” she said. But the landlord could easily get $100 a night for it from tourists, she said.
I told her that lots of people of Croatian ancestry now living in Northeast Ohio would like to do just what she has — move back to Dubrovnik.
“I would tell them to come here for January, February and March and see how they do first,” she said.
Although this palmy city rarely gets snow, it’s winter then and more rainy.
Meet Carol, an ex-pat in Dubrovnik by clicking here.

Croatia trip meant to be

2010-09-15T16:36:00.001-04:00

Some things, I think, are just meant to be. And my trip to Croatia, which begins tomorrow, is one of them. Perhaps it's the leftover Mayan woo-woo (see http://tinyurl.com/27hhoo3) from my very spiritual trip to Mexico earlier this summer, but I've had signs to confirm the rightness of this journey.

For instance: I thought I'd introduce myself to the woman who is to be my roommate on the yacht sailing among the Adriatic islands. ROW adventures told me she was Jayme Otto, a major writer of women's adventure stories based in Colorado. So I emailed Jayme to tell her about myself. "You won't believe this," she replied. "But I grew up in Mentor." She actually was in town for her grandmother's funeral when she got my email and saw my Wednesday Food section, complete with my photo. I got goosebumps over that astonishing coincidence.

Not long after, Nada Milkovic served me dinner at Gavi's and I learned that she was from Split, the city I will visit at the end of my voyage. She's among the 30,000 or so Croatians living in Eastlake and has been here 22 years.

I asked her about restaurants, some basic terminology and what to eat and drink while I was in her homeland. In between serving tables she wrote some things down on the back on an old menu. I had planned to write the words' meanings and their phonetic pronounciation, but time got away from me. So I asked Nada (maybe it's Neda!) to come to the News-Herald so I could shoot some video. Now all I need to do is to look at the film of Neda telling me about the foods and wine, and I'll be good to go.

Click here to meet Nada.

Preparing for Croatia

2010-08-27T10:45:00.000-04:00

My new acquaintance with John Prim has helped me learn a few good Croatian words to take with me on my voyage next month among the Adriatic islands between Dubrovnik and Split. John is the brains behind a new company (Diversified Renewable Concepts) that aims to give people solar technology they can do themselves to reduce their electric bills and their reliance on the grid. (see last sunday's News-Herald if you missed it) Although he hasn't been back to Croatia since 1978 he's helping me to learn basics such as "please", "thankyou" and "you have a beautiful country." In Croatia, like the rest of Europe, many people speak English, but I've discovered that most folks appreciate the effort made to communicate in their own language.
I've learned from John that the "old language" existed before World War II when Croatia was its own country in the Austria-Hungary Empire. When Tito took over and created Yugoslavia, five separate countries including Croatia were rolled into one and the language changed.
In preparing for this trip, I realize how little I know about the history of that part of the world and am trying to get up to speed on that too. If any of you readers can help me out, please do, using the comment section of this blog. I am trying to read Rebecca West's "Black Lamb, Grey Falcon" which everyone recommends, but at 1300 pages I don't think I'll finish it before I leave. It would be great reading on the long flights, but since it's an 18-passenger sailing ship with tight quarters I must pack super light so that book is out. Any packing tips you may have in that regard will also be appreciated.

L'Abatros scores Bon Appetit mention

2010-08-18T13:00:00.000-04:00

It's always good to see this area recognized nationally for its food scene. That's again the case on Tuesday (Aug 24) when Bon Appetit magazine's September issue comes out.

In its feature "Best Daily Specials in America" Bon Appétit recognizes L’Albatros Brasserie and Bar for its Shrimp Scampi with Quick-Preserved Lemon and Fennel on Polenta. The article says: "L’Albatros brings a taste of France to Cleveland’s University Circle neighborhood. Cassoulet, bouillabaisse—and even escargot—show up on the menu. But the restaurant also dabbles in other regions of the world. There are pizzas, a burger, and this delicious take on shrimp scampi, and American classic."
It even gives the recipe for this dish at http://www.bonappetit.com/recipes/2010/09/shrimp_scampi_with_quick_preserved_lemon_and_fennel_on_polenta

I raved about the cassoulet at L’Albatros last February, when readers of this blog got a preview of that same excellence. (Rather than look through the archives you can go there directly by clicking on http://tinyurl.com/2epy3ur)

To see the daily specials that Bon Appetit recommended throughout the country visit http://www.bonappetit.com/recipes/slideshows/2010/09/restaurant_daily_specials_recipes

Sunday for rugged Lozere, whitewater thrills

2010-08-12T16:49:00.000-04:00

This is a very strange business. I'm now deep into my planning for a September voyage off the coast of Croatia and thinking hard about the story I soon need to write about a spa in Mexico.

But I'm really psyched that Sunday's Travel section with my Lozere, France story soon will soon be in readers' hands. It's a very remote and rugged destination, easily reached these days but pretty inaccessible until the 1950s when a road was put in next to the Tarn River gorge.

To this day it's a sparsely populated region in the south of France with a dozen or more villages having fewer than 250 people. Communal bread ovens are still at the edges of some villages, where the townswomen gather to bake their bread.

I visited there on a four-day trip in June with the national tourist office which arranged lodging and meals and provided us writers with transportation and translation. I want to go back and explore at a slower pace it on foot with a donkey, just like Robert Louis Stevenson did in the 1870s. Maybe when I retire.

Inns in the area, all in tiny towns, provide lodging for hikers and their donkeys which people can rent to carry their gear.
There wasn't space enough to use them with the hardcopy version of the story, so here are some of my France photos. The Travel section is now monthly and space was needed for the other stories, written by my colleagues. Two of them had a life-changing experience white water rafting on the New River in W. Va. and another spent quality family time with her family at Kings Island and the Cincinnati zoo. All of them shared their experiences in this upcoming travel section, which will be with your paper on Sunday. Others will have to read it online.

Come with me to Croatia

2010-08-10T11:19:00.000-04:00

“Do you need someone to carry your bags?” is the most common version of the question I hear when friends and other readers learn I’m headed out on a trip to gather information, photos and video for The News-Herald. Usually that’s not an option since writers are invited on press trips by those hosting them and the trips are not open to the public.
Usually they’re so quick and busy that no one would really want to spend their vacation that way.
Exceptions don’t happen often, but my upcoming culinary voyage among Adriatic islands off Croatia is one of them.
And you’re invited.
This is not a traditional press trip.
ROW International has chartered the four-masted, 110-foot sailing yacht Romanca for the Sept. 15 to 26 voyage. We meet in Dubrovnik and end in Split with guided tours and hotel nights in each city. Overnights in between are on the yacht in shared accommodations. I don’t yet know who my roommate will be, but I’m assured she will be female.
Days will be spent visiting oyster beds and the people who tend them, seeing cheese, olive oil and wine being made and partaking of freshly harvested foods prepared as the folks on each island have made them for centuries. It's said to be some of the finest cuisine in the world, often flavored with the thyme, sage and capers growing in the dark red soil. We’ll hike among ancient ruins and lavender fields from our port to many of our destinations, enjoying the scenery and sights along the way with native guides. One of them will even give us Croatian lessons.

We’ll visit ancient villages, such as Korcula, which is shown here. It’s famous for being the birthplace of Marco Polo and is highly regarded both for its olive oil and a luscious white wine called Grk.
It’s prime time in September along the Dalmatian Coast, with sea temperatures in the 70s and daytime highs in the 80s. ROW founder Peter Grub, who has nurtured relationships on these islands since 1988, will be along this time to show us his favorite swimming spots.
These coastlines are across the sea from Italy and have experienced years of both Venetian and Ottoman occupation which has influenced everything from cuisine to dialects.
We’ll be following an itinerary, which you can see at http://www.rowadventures.com/Yacht-Croatia-Culinary, so we’ll be motoring much of the time. Those who sail know that it’s difficult to keep to a schedule when following the wind.

If you haven’t sailed before you need to know that the experience is more like luxury camping than any cruise. The packing list sent to those who book is telling. It recommends ear plugs, (which I always pack anyway) saying “helpful at night in cities or aboard yacht if your neighbor snores.”
If you’re aboard you’ll be a part of my stories, which will run in the November travel section. The website has details about prices and booking.
See you there!

Handy dandy African artifacts

2010-07-29T16:20:00.000-04:00

After visiting the Cleveland Museum of Art's newly reopened galleries I came away infatuated with an African belt. I was there to gather information and ideas for a story running in Sunday's Community section about how the items on display have been in storage or loaned to other museums for the past five years while the galleries were being prepared for their return. Most of what I saw is truly ancient -- some things dating back 5,000 years. A gorgeous Apollo statue, which you can see in my video on the paper's website, was first written about in the 1st century by Pliny the Elder. I think he's the same one who chronicled the eruption of Vesuvius that buried Pompeii.
The African belt, however, is much more recent, dating to maybe 100 years ago. Some believe it is still being used by tribes in the Congo.

I can see why.

It's beaded and beautiful in its handcrafting mostly with beads. Cowrie shells cover one of the pouches and others are beaded in gorgeous shades of blue.. my favorite color. I even saw a scallop shell on the belt - perhaps used to dip water for drinking. Scallop shells have also been worn for 1,000 years by pilgrims walking the Way of St. James across the south of France to Santiago de Compestela in Spain where St. James is supposed to be buried. You can read about that in the Aug 15 travel section which we are putting together now.

I was impressed with the belt for its looks, of course, but I couldn't help but think how handy it would be to carry my stuff - always a dilemma when I need to find a place for my cell phone, my money and credit cards, my notebook and pen and more recently, my flipcam.

Ice cream s'mores- YUM

2010-07-08T13:41:00.001-04:00

If you're not car sick from viewing the video on my previous blog, those who enjoyed the ice cream recipes in yesterday's Food section (which see) are going to love this one. It's built around Hagen Daz's Java Chip ice cream to make a chilly version of s'mores in a bowl. Makes these hot days much more worthwhile. This recipe serves 4.

Toasted Java Chip Crumble
6 to 8 honey graham cracker squares, divided
6 large marshmallows
2 cups Java Chip HÄAGEN-DAZS All Natural Ice Cream, divided
2 Tablespoons coarsely chopped pecans, toasted (optional)
Preheat broiler (or toaster oven) to medium and adjust rack to 6 inches from heat source.Place a piece of foil on a baking sheet.
Place 2 graham cracker squares in a small plastic bag. Crush with fingers or rolling pin into very fine crumbs. Break remaining graham crackers into bite-size pieces and divide between 4 serving dishes.
Dip a sharp knife in water and cut marshmallows in half. Place graham cracker crumbs in a small dish. Press cut side of marshmallows into crumbs. Place marshmallows crumb-side-down on prepared baking sheet.
Scoop one-half cup ice cream into each serving dish. Broil marshmallows for about 45 seconds or until golden brown. (Watch carefully to prevent burning or flaming!). Immediately lift marshmallows from pan with a thin spatula and place 3 in each dish. Sprinkle with nuts and remaining graham cracker crumbs.

caves are cool even in France

2010-07-07T16:14:00.000-04:00

Caves are usually cool places to be, a compelling thought in this heat. Depending on their access to the surface, a cave is between 55 and 65 degrees year round...quite pleasant these recent days.

Caves are a theme in several of the locally written stories on Sunday, the third edition of the new monthly travel section for The News-Herald. It wasn't planned that way, but caves figured in the trips that Tracey Read and Michael Blair took to Indiana, the visit made by Jason Lea to Chattanooga and my own recent trip to the Lozere region of France.

I'll have more on France in August - just in time to help you plan your own trip there this fall or next spring. I'm really sad that Continental cancelled its service between Cleveland and Paris because that flight made it so much easier to visit my favorite city.

But the Lozere region in Languedoc is about as far from Paris as a place can be, reached by a white-knuckle drive from Montpellier on the Mediterranean coast of France. I think my video captures that experience, so have a look.

We took a funicular the first 50 feet down, and then walked down stairs into the cave, which was one huge room big enough to hold several football fields, or the Notre Dame Cathedral.

Here's my press group inside the funicular car.

I've had many recent calls from readers wondering why their travel section is not in their Sunday paper - its home since the 1980s. Three months ago the section went monthly, and I must say it looks good. If you haven't seen it, I urge you to pick it up on Sunday July 11 or subscribe to The News-Herald so you can get it every month. Without your support it may go away, like so many things that once were part of daily newspapers.

Hello from Langdueoc

2010-06-16T04:08:00.000-04:00

Eighty percent of the people seen on the streets of Montpellier this time of year are students who come from throughout France and the rest of Europe to study music, medicine, and a host of different disciplines at the city's dozen colleges. Narrow, cobbled pedestrian walkways lined with shops such as the cities 12 luthiers (violin makers) ply their trade. Walk away from one of the bustling town squares in the old part of the city and you're sure to hear distant operatic arias and the refrains of practicing an instrument. Montpellier's vitality and diversity help peel away the exhaustion of jet leg topped by being on the go for 27 straight hours before dinner.
The ancient Romans left their marks on this Mediterranean city and the local language still is affected by Catalan, spoken to the south in Barcelona.
As we board our mini-van for the drive north we're accompanied by glowering clouds indicating the rain to come. At first the distant mountains are not much more than shadows along the horizon, hardly distinguishable from the dark cumulus. But as we drive the countryside becomes more West Virginia in appearance, and narrow roads become switchbacks lined with cliffs over fast-flowing mountain streams. Narrow stone villages are squeezed into wide places in the canyons, their varied stone rooftops showing their antiquities. We're in the area now where in about 1870 Robert Louis Stevenson set out with a donkey and a sleeping bag to walk 120 miles in 12 days. The book he wrote about the experience, "Travels with a Donkey," turned out to be the first travel writing to explore the pleasures of the trail. Both Hemingway and John Steinbeck considered him a mentor. I've got it on order through Barnes & Noble.
Dinner included my first cheese tray since I was last in Europe - a selection of 15 different cow, sheep and goat cheeses that me glad that cholesterol isn't one of my problems.
If the weather holds today we'll be walking some of these same trails, and if it doesn't we'll be meeting some of the artists tucked into these hills to see what they do.

Tennessee Travelogue #5: The Best of the Noog

2010-06-14T20:00:00.000-04:00

I lied to you. I said yesterday would be the last blog post on my recent trip to Chattanooga, Tenn.; but I thought it would be worthwhile to throw out some favorites from my stay in the Noog.

Best way to spend your time in Chattanooga if you only have a single afternoon in the city: The Chattanooga Aquarium is a must visit. It combines elements of an aquarium, zoo, riverboat tour, botanical gardens and art exhibit. It's worth it just to see the adorable pig-nosed turtle.

Guilty pleasure: I didn't expect to care about Rock City. It's a series of outside gardens and caverns -- pretty, but nothing special. But the original owners of Rock City augmented their gardens with touches that you will either love or loathe.

Some may think it's ridiculous to design a "fairy tale cavern" with dioramas depicting stories from the brothers Grimm or Hans Christian Andersen, or to have someone dressed as a gnome frolicking in the gardens.

But, honestly, I loved it. If you have a kid who is younger than 12 (or are someone with the emotional maturity of a 12-year-old, like myself), I suspect you will love it.

Biggest surprise: The art scene in Chattanooga is incredible. The creativity literally spills into the street with sidewalk sculptures. Glasswork, paintings, blacksmithing -- the talent runs the gamut; and, if you care about the visual arts, you will find something you love in Chattanooga.

Best entree: I could say almost anything from Sugar's Ribs. (They had some of the best barbecue I've had in my life, and I come from a family in which barbecue is a spiritual experience.)

But they were slightly topped by the crabmeat-stuffed filet mignon at Back Inn Cafe. Often, restaurants use luxery items like truffles, caviar and, to a lesser extent crabmeat, to disguise average offerings. But the crabmeat complimented, instead of competed with, the filet.

Best appetizer: Avgolemono from Niko's. I initially ordered the soup because I was intrigued by the words "lemon egg emulsion." But I loved it after a single spoonful. It's a complicated soup with a hint of sweetness, the bite of lemon and the substance of the egg.

I had never had Avgolemono before seeing it on Niko's menu. Now, I will order it whenever I see it in the menu, if only so I can say, "This isn't as good as the one they serve at Niko's in Chattanooga."

(Niko's broiled feta also deserves an honorable mention.)

Best dessert: Let me tell you how good the banana pudding at Sugar's Ribs is. I ate it for the first time Saturday evening. I had already eaten portions of barbecue lamb, chicken, sausage, pork rib, brisket and a side of cole slaw. But the pudding was so good that I not only made room for dessert, I requested another cup, afterward.

On Sunday, I had an hour to kill before I needed to check-in at the airport. I went to Sugar's and only ordered one thing.

Prettiest view: There are a lot of peaks on Lookout Mountain from which you can see the city and also a fleet of boats that can take you down the picturesque Tennessee River. But the best view in Chattanooga is actually 1,100 feet underground.

Ruby's Falls is an 140-foot waterfall ensconced in Lookout Mountain. You'll like it... or you're dead inside.

For the adventurous: I have sunburns on my forearms and knees from rafting the whitewater of the Ocoee River. It hurts whenever anybody touches them, and I suspect my skin will be peeling like a snake's in the next few days.

Doesn't matter. Rafting the Ocoee was a blast and I regret nothing. Class-four rapids, fun tour guides from Cherokee rafting -- I can see why the Olympics chose the Ocoee for their whitewater rafting competition in 1996.

-Jason Lea, JLea@News-Herald.com

Tennessee Travelogue #4: Epilogue

2010-06-13T19:35:00.000-04:00

This is the final post from guest blogger Jason Lea on his trip to Chattanooga, Tennesse. For more, read The News-Herad's travel section.

My flight out of Chattanooga is delayed, and I'll likely be sleeping in the Charlotte Airport tonight. Things like this happen when you travel. I've spent nights in the Miami and Atlanta airport before.

If nothing else, it gives me an opportunity to update Janet's blog.

I neglected to mention one important aspect of the Chattanooga art scene in my previous post. The primary reason the relatively small city has such an exciting art community is because of all the support it gets from the local chamber of commerce, government and nonprofits.

The city has a program called Arts Move that helps fund artists' relocation to Chattanooga. So far they have brought 27 artists -- who range from sculptors to writers to dulcimer players -- in the last four years.

Also, Chattanooga has revitalized its once abandoned Main Street through public art. For example, they took an abandoned building and turned it into one of the more audacious sculptures I have ever seen.

They have a bevy of artists -- some locally grown, some imported -- on and along Main Street. Some examples:

The easy way to describe Terry Cannon's art work is mixed media. He stands in front of an unfinished bicycle painting/sculpture here. (I wish I could tell you more about his process, but most of my notes are en route to Cleveland.)

Here's an example of his finished work.

Along the same stretch of road we have blacksmiths who turn aluminum siding into purses, wood workers and glass blowing artists. (Once again, I will have more specific info once I get my notes back.)

Chattanooga also offers outlets for its local artists at venues, including its weekly market. The market offers paintings, caricatures, jewelry made from recycled glass, beeswax candles, sculpted fountains and photography.

A pair of examples:

Overall, I loved the city even though it was hotter than Satan's sauna during most of my visit.

-Jason Lea

P.S. As a parting shot, enjoy this picture of a goat. Local restaurant Sugar's Ribs (great barbecue, better banana pudding) uses goats to mow its lawn.

France rain forecast

2010-06-13T07:39:00.000-04:00

and now, back to Janet

According to AccuWeather, it's raining in Montpellier, France right now and showers are also in the forecast for Tuesday and Wednesday.
I leave in just a few hours.

So I just added my raincoat to my carryon. Now I'm concerned that my bag won't fit in the overhead and I'll be struggling to remove the raincoat while in the aircraft's aisle with boarding passengers backed up behind me. I suppose I could just wear it, but when I arrive at Charles deGaulle Airport at 8:30 a.m. Monday (2:30 am Cleve time) I'll be bleary eyed and brain addled and could easily leave it behind. And I wouldn't want to do that because, honestly, that raincoat is one of my most treasured possessions. I wear it on a regular basis probably nine months of every year. Why not an umbrella? you may ask. Ever try to juggle an umbrella, a camera bag, video and notebook at the same time? It just doesn't work on a writing trip.

On another note, I've been trying to give away the travel related items sent to me by many different entrepreneurs. All you have to do is view the video Gadgets for Travel (a few blogs ago) and tell me in the comment section which one you want. Let me know how to reach you so I can get your address, or I'll bring it with me to the office so you can pick it up.

And I hope you really enjoy the new Travel Section in today's News-Herald. It was a real labor of love and most of the photos are from the archives of my husband, Ted Podolak.

I'll be blogging from France, so come back here soon. Bon Voyage.

Tennessee Travelogue #3: Artistic Differences

2010-06-12T07:36:00.000-04:00

This is the third in a series of posts from guest writer Jason Lea on his trip to Chattanooga, Tennessee.

First, a correction: Ruby Falls is 140 feet, not 200. It only seems 200 feet when you see it by lantern light. Here's what it looks like when lit by LED lights.

Chattanooga embraces art in a lot of different ways. It has the Hunter Art Museum that focuses on American painting and sculpture. Here are a couple of examples from its collection:

This painting was created by Oscar Bluemner, who was also known as the Vermillionaire for his use of that particular hue. (I want my nickname to be the Hamburgundy.)

This horse looks like it is a skeleton made of driftwood. It is, in fact, constructed from cast bronze.

As enjoyable as the art museum is, it's not revolutionary to have a museum dedicated to art in your city. What impresses me about Chattanooga is how it incorporates art into all aspects of the city.

For example, it reminds you that the culinary arts are, of course, an art.

It also has repurposed an old cigarette machine to give small pieces of artwork. Some of which is locally made.

The city's fantastic aquarium has an exhibit called Jellies: Living Art, in which it commissioned artists to recreate the imagery of jelly fish with ceramics, blown glass and other glasswork. It is done in cooperation with the art museum.

The aquarium also incorporates sculpture into its turtle exhibit.

The Bluffview Art District lies on the shore of the Tennessee River. It has a free sculpture garden that is open from morning until dusk. The sculptures in the exhibit occasionally change as some of them are for sale.

Icarus cannot be bought.

However, Man Defeats Chair can.

Bluffview also has a gallery with more sculpture and artwork that can be purchased. My favorite artist inside is Teena Stern.

Stern creates bronze sculptures of dancers in ballet positions. You can immediately tell her sculptures are made by a woman because their features have an honesty that men would idealize. If I had a few thousand disposable dollars, I would be leaving Chattanooga with a Stern original.

Rock City is on Lookout Mountain, near Ruby Falls. It has large, outside gardens and caverns that use sculpture and light to enhance nature's beauty.

My favorite part was Fairytale Caverns where sculptor Jesse Sanders created a series of dioramas depicting childhood stories. (Good for kids!)

Finally, I want to leave you with some snippets from Sheryl Crow's performance at the Riverbend Music Festival.

Riverbend is a 9-day, genre-spanning music festival on the Tennessee River in Chattanooga.

The stage is actually on the river. (Crow specifically noted there would be no stage diving during her performance.)

Crow is the headliner for the opening night. Other headliners range from Allison Krauss to George Clinton & the Parliament Funkadelic.

Tennessee Travelogue #2: Chattanooga Aquarium

2010-06-10T23:33:00.000-04:00

This is the second entry of a series of posts written by guest blogger Jason Lea about his trip to Chattanooga, Tennessee.

Busy day -- kayaked on the Tennessee River, visited the Bluffview Art District and toured Ruby Falls by lantern. Ruby Falls, by the way, is a 200-foot waterfall ensconced more than half of a mile within a cave.

But it's late and I'm already exhausted, so today's post will only focus on one aspect of today's travels, my trip to the Chattanooga Aquarium.

The city's aquarium is so much more than sea life. It has botanical and butterfly gardens, art exhibits, freshwater and ocean habitats and a boat tour. The only aquarium that I've seen that can be compared to it is Shedd Aquarium in Chicago.

As for freshwater, the aquarium had tanks for the different river habitats in Russia, South America, Africa, China, Japan and, of course, Tennessee. They had freshwater stingrays with polka dot and orange paisley patterns.

In the saltwater exhibits, they have a menagerie of fish, sharks, rays and reptiles. My personal favorite: an enormous green sea turtle named Oscar, because, when he was discovered, he was grouchy and covered in furry, green algae.

The aquarium also has a beautiful exhibit on jellyfish, which pairs the animals with blown-glass and ceramic pieces of art inspired by the jellies.

Before I let you go, here are a few photos from the aquarium:

And because I don't have time to edit a coherent video, here's something I threw together entitled Penguin Frolic Time.

-Jason Lea, JLea@News-Herald.com

P.S. This is what I ate for dinner at the Back Inn Cafe. It's filet mignon stuffed with crab meat. Life is gravy, man.

Tennessee Travelogue #1

2010-06-09T21:34:00.000-04:00

Janet Podolak has been kind enough to let guest writer Jason Lea borrow her blog for the next few days to write about his trip in Chattanooga, Tennessee.

The first thing I do when I'm south of the Mason-Dixon Line is get a glass of sweet tea. During the next five days, I expect to drink my weight in it.

This is my first night in Chattanooga, and I'm staying at a hotel that used to be the city's railway station.

As you probably guessed, it's named the Chattanooga Choo Choo.

My room used to be a railway car. It's a cool shtick that kids, especially boys, would love. A lot of the visitors here are families with younger children.

The hotel has 48 railway car rooms. They can cost as much as $170 per night, but that changes depending upon season.

Tonight, I ate at the station house, which offers a full complement of tasty steaks and chicken dinners; but the real attraction is the singing waiters and waitresses. The service staff take turns belting out fantastic renditions of "Midnight Train to Georgia," "Get Down Tonight," "California Dreaming," and, yes, "The Chattanooga Choo Choo."

They do take suggestions, but my waitress declined my request for something from Naughty by Nature's catalogue.

-Jason Lea, JLea@News-Herald.com

P.S. You see this? This is The Station House's apple dumpling. It is just cause to visit Chattanooga.

P.P.S. Theme hotels give the best swag.

Gadgets for travel

2010-06-07T12:54:00.001-04:00

There are a million gadgets that promise to make packing and traveling easier. This video shows you some that have been sent to me. The hanger is really helpful in keeping my clothing fresh, especially when I pack for carry- on and wear everything more than once. This Sunday's new and improved travel section has a photo of me sliding down the face of a glacier - one big reason I've become a fanatic about packing the appropriate footwear. I hope you read it and find lots of helpful information for your own journeys. To me, a newspaper travel section is inspiration, while the internet is information. I try to give you both! Please weigh in and let me know what you think.

Art of packing specific to the trip

2010-06-07T11:00:00.000-04:00

Soon I'll be off to France. I'm shown here with the clothes I'll wear on the flight and the things that need to go in my personal bag.
The act of packing for a trip is meditation, a time to contemplate the hours of transit, the adventures, the social interaction and overnights ahead.
Parameters for a writing research trip are quite different from a vacation, although the same pitfalls can occur without mindful packing.
Research trips typically involve a heavy schedule planned and implemented by others, following an itinerary received a week or two before departure. Hotels are one-night stands and baggage is the responsibility of the traveler.
I pack to meet airline restrictions for carryon, which means one bag will fit in the overhead compartment above my seat and a second, smaller bag can go under the seat in front of me.
Carryon affords flexibility - a proactive, desirable thing in this era of travel.
When your bag and its contents are beside you, it’s easier to cope with unexpected changes and take advantage of rare blocks of unexpected free time.
After a long haul flight, free time often means a hot shower in the airport. Many airports now make them available for a fee and they’re spotlessly clean and incredibly effective refreshers, especially after sleeping in your clothes in a narrow seat. See http://tinyurl.com/2da4cde to read last year’s blog about airport showers.

I’ll have a three-hour layover between my arrival Monday morning at Charles DeGaulle airport in Paris and the departure of my connection for Montpellier, on France’s Mediterranean coast to the south. Given the need to clear customs and travel to another terminal for the connecting flight that’s not nearly as much time as it seems
But know where the Air France showers in Charles DeGaulle are and I will pack a Freshhanger (see below) on top of my bag so that my clothes can also be refreshed and have their wrinkles steamed out as I shower.
That’s good, because I will join a walking tour of Montpellier directly from my midday arrival the airport, with hotel check- in still several hours (and miles) away. The itinerary calls for dinner at 8 (which will be 1 a.m. back home) so a 22-hour day without sleep is almost a certainty that first day.
I pack very specifically for the trip, making sure to include hiking boots if walks in the mountains are expected, as they are with this trip to Languedoc. Not having the correct footwear can ruin a trip. Catch this Sunday’s Travel section fo a photo of me sliding down a glacier — a victim of inocrrect footwear. Here’s how I have packed for this five-day trip. The list includes the clothes I will be wearing since I need to dress up each night for dinner and pieces will alternate.
My carryon bags include my laptop, camera and Flip-Cam, for documenting the adventures.
4 pairs pants, including jeans
3 tops, including 1 T-shirt
2 tanks
1 jacket
3 changes underwear
2 socks
2 pair shoes
1 pair boots
2 Freshhanger
Also: a compass, small towel, nylon tie-sack

Once I always packed in large plastic zipper bags until my daughter gifted me with one large plastic bag with a double zip on top.
Light fabrics this time of year allow clothing to slide easily into that bag. Underwear and socks are tucked into shoes. The bottom of the bag is covered with a 2-quart plastic bag that provides a layer of waterproofing and can serve to hold soiled laundry to be washed en route.
Once my belongings are in the bag it’s placed on a chair or another firm surface and I sit on it to squeeze out all the air. That squeezes my clothing into a 4-inch thick, tightly sealed package — just the right size for my suitcase, with room on one end for my camera, and one-quart bag with toiletries, which is double-bagged for leakage.
Flying in comfortable nonrestrictive clothing encourages sleep on overnight international flights. In coach I can pull out the bag placed under the seat in front of me to use as a footrest because my legs are short. I bring an inflatable pillow, sleep mask, earplugs, and shawl, which can serve as a blanket since airlines often are out.
If I arrive at the hotel early enough to wash out underwear it usually will be dry the next day. If it’s not, the in-room hairdryer will finish job.
So my clothing doesn’t acquire a stale scent I unpack every night and use the Freshhangers to air it out. Before I discovered them I always added a couple fabric softener sheets in my bag.
The compass is along because I am not good at keeping a sense of direction and I try to include some directions in my stories. Its also valuable when I’m on a subway underground and need to know which way to turn once I emerge into the city above.
The ties on the nylon tie sack configure as a backpack, so can be great for carrying my umbrella, maps, notebook while exploring a new place on foot.
What size for carryon?
The size restrictions vary by airline and the class you are traveling. On domestic flights a good rule of thumb is to figure 45 inches, which is the bag’s width plus height plus depth. My 22 by 15 by 7 inch bag fits nicely. An extra zipper opens to allow for a little extra space, which sometimes is needed for press material and purchases. It’s a nice feature, but if the bag expands I will need to pay to check it.
My Continental flight to Newark permits my carryon bag to weigh 40 pounds, but once I check in to my Air France flight, 26 pounds is the limit.

My personal bag holds my camera, laptop, Flipcam, glasses and sealable quart size bag of toiletries. Once I’m beyond airport security I stop and transfer heavier items to my wheeled bag, padding them carefully for the rest of the trip.
Also in my personal bag are my medications, hairbrush, and toothbrush. My cosmetics, shampoo, conditioner, toothpaste, saline solution and cosmetics all are in my sealable plastic bag, per Transportation Security Administration rules.

I save tiny plastic bottles used by Lancome for samples. Each one holds one-day’s shampoo with a second for conditioner and a third for styling product. I use an old contact lens case for squirts of my foundation, with face moisturizer on one side. One small bottle of contact lens saline solution lasts a week.
Details
Transportation Security Administration: www.tsa.gov
See www.luggage limits.com to learn the restrictions for most airlines.
Freshhanger.com; 866-530-6580
Follow my blog while I am in France right here

hot dog! help me out

2010-05-28T11:13:00.001-04:00

How do you like your hot dogs? That burning question, to be answered by you, will be the subject of a story I'll be producing for our July 4 News-Herald.

It's another Ben Franklin project effort to produce an entire newspaper using only free tools found on the internet. We made newspaper history when we produced our May 20 paper that same way. That's why you may have been directed to this blog through a posting on Twitter, one of the free tools I'll be depending upon.

Hot dogs are part of the American psyche and it's not as simple a question as you may think. Some insist on all-beef dogs, some are loyal to a certain brand, some use them as an ingredient in other dishes. Some swear by skinless dogs, while others want the skin to split before consuming it. Some people steam their hot dogs, while others wouldn't consider eating one unless it was speared on a stick and cooked over an open fire, camping style. Mustard and catsup are favorite condiments, but it doesn't stop there.

By the time this story sees print I hope to have gathered dozens of ideas, some recipes for condiments, your hot dog preferences and perhaps a little something about buns. But I need your help.

Weigh in here or check out my Tweets on Twitter and my Facebook account. I'm really new at all this so perhaps you'll have some suggestions in those areas too. I welcome them all.

I'd really like to hear from you before June 11 because I'll be in France the following week (see earlier blog) and will need to wrap this up when I get home.

So: How do you like your hot dogs?

Cline Wines: an intriguing story

2010-05-21T14:40:00.000-04:00

By itself a wine dinner is a wonderful way to discover and learn about wines and taste foods ideal for pairing with different vintages. But the experience is flavored by the crowd, its curiosity and its questions.
I'd like to tell you that the video with this blog is moody because of the lovely evening I spent this week at Sapore, Loretta Paganini's fine restaurant in Chester Township. But in truth it was a splash of Cline Pinot Gris that clung to the lens of my FlipCam and somewhat blurred its images.
Diners that night were mostly Paganini followers, curious well traveled folks who greatly appreciate fine food and fine wines. The questions they posed to Cline Cellars' Keith Morris made for a fascinating experience.
I was familiar with the winery's Ancient Vine Zinfandel, one of my favorites with grilled meats in the summer. The vines still used for that wine date to the early 1900s when they were planted in Sonoma by the Jacuzzi family.
Valeriano Jacuzzi came to this country after his suggestion to the Wright Brothers resulted in success for their flying machines. The Wrights had propeller problems and Jacuzzi, a furniture maker in Italy, wrote to suggest that if the Wrights twisted the propeller wood in the same way Jacuzzi twisted his wooden chair legs, it would strengthen the wood.
The proposal worked and soon the Wright Brothers were pioneers of flight. Their supporters sent for Valeriano Jacuzzi so he could continue to advise the brothers. Jacuzzi arrived in the U.S. along with several of his own brothers and their families. They settled in San Francisco and began to make furniture in this country. Missing the farms of their native Italy, they began to buy land in what is today southern Sonoma County where they planted grapes and made wine as a hobby. Meanwhile, they invented the Jacuzzi as a way to help a family member who had medical problems.
Fast forward to 1982 when Valeriano's grandson Fred Cline consolidated the family's vineyards and began to produce Cline Wines. The vineyard is organic and solar-powered and maintains a herd of 1,700 sheep and goats to eat the beans it grows between the vines to nourish the soil. Last summer the Wall Street Journal rated its fragrant Viognier as the best value Viognier in America. We also tasted the Cline Cashmere, an extraordinary blend; the pinot gris, Zinfandel and late harvest Mourvedre. Some of these wines will also be poured on May 29 when Holden Arboretum hosts its annual wine and food event among the rhododendrens.
Get details in Wednesday Food.

back to france? you decide

2010-04-30T13:16:00.000-04:00

The volcano giveth as it takes away.

A trip by the France Tourist Office, cancelled because of the Iceland volcano, has been rescheduled.

I've been invited back to France in June, at least partly because of the astonishing contest success of a series I wrote for The New-Herald last summer about following in the footsteps of several artists in the south of France. Find Following Picasso, Light Leads the Way and Enduring Magic at http://tinyurl.com/2dt97oc or just key in Picasso at www.news-herald.com

This trip is to the Languedoc region in southwest France, a remote, little known area of dramatic scenery, small villages and France's equivalent of the Grand Canyon. One overnight is in a 16th century chateau, and a dining stop will be in a building that once housed shepherds in remote meadows with their flocks. We'll be hiking, including a walk along a trail used by pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela, an ancient pathway also known as the Way of St. James in Spain and eating food that's fresh and rustic, like the surroundings.

The French Tourist Office will be hosting me and other writers and will provide us with English interpretation and cultural insights for our stories. If I go, I'll be traveling with a laptop so I can blog, as Ive done in the past (see archives here), I'll be bringing my camera to capture images and this time I'll also be bringing a small video camera. It's work, indeed, but it's good work and I love doing it.

But time is valuable and I have a lot of other commitments here for Wednesday Food, Thursday Health, Saturday Religion and Sunday Community plus Travel, most of which I'll have to do before I leave home. Before I commit I need to get a sense of whether these will be stories you want to read.

Weigh in here. I'd like to know your thoughts and if there are other places you'd rather read about, let me know that too. These trips are hosted so I must depend on the hospitality of others who know what valuable folks you are for their destinations. I need to decide in the next few days, so don't delay...should I stay or should I go?

grounded by volcano

2010-04-22T12:46:00.000-04:00

I should be in London now, but I’m not.
Because I always try to get some exercise and fresh air after an overnight flight, I had expected to be strolling into the Pheasant Pub (above) about now, ready for a good pub lunch. It’s close to the Heathrow hotel where I’d been booked and I discovered it last year on another trip (http://tinyurl.com/2628gcz)
But Celebrity Cruises, which was among the millions of victims of the volcano erupting over Iceland, canceled the voyage late Wednesday. I learned this in an email Wednesday just as I was about to print out my Continental Airlines boarding passes for Thursday flights from Cleveland to Newark Liberty and on to London Heathrow, where I was to have arrived at 8:20 a.m. today London time (2:20 a.m. here)
Celebrity was hosting frequent passengers, journalists, travel agents and would-be advertisers on a pair of two-day, back-to-back cruises. But the eruption of Eyjafjallajokull beneath a glacier and the subsequent ash plume and five-day closing of busy airspace over England changed all that.
Brits on holiday and business all over the world were stranded and couldn’t get back to London Heathrow — Europe’s busiest airport. So Celebrity stepped in and offered to take its brand new ship on a mission of mercy to Bilbao, Spain where Brits and vacation were stranded. (http://tinyurl.com/2g6zj5u)
After five days without aircraft, UK-bound food and other perishables, stored in coolers in Holland, South Africa and elsewhere, was spoiling and shortages were forecast.
“We weren’t affected a bit,” said Painesville native Beverly LeBlanc, who lives in London. A food writer — and former News-Herald reporter — LeBlanc is working on a cookbook entitled “365 Soups” and has tested about 300 recipes at this point. “There are no food shortages and the only difference I’ve seen were fewer tourists on the tube and around town.”
Like others living in England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales she became acutely aware of the lack of air traffic and the clear blue skies overhead. Instead of being criss-crossed by jet trails the dissolved into an ever-present haze, the sky was clear and without aircraft.
When air space over the UK and much of Europe was reopened Wednesday, I monitored a host of web sites to learn if planes were falling out of the sky due to volcanic ash. Much as I really wanted to trust the decision makers, I knew there had been a lot of pressure to get flights back in the air and I hope they had, as they claimed, kept safety at the top of their priorities.
Websites I visited included London newspapers http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news and the air navigation folks at www.nats.co.uk. The latter was so overwhelmed with internet traffic that it put up a temporary site just for volcano updates.
I also learned that the News-Herald website (www.news-herald.com) is not alone in receiving strange postings. One poster to a UK newspaper complained that the volcano was an insurance scam on the part of Iceland. Another wrote of being stranded in Hong Kong where overnight his hotel room price went from $200 a night to $800 a night. Lots of folks were stranded with their laptops and plenty of time to weigh in on their plight.
Today on the BBC site, things are back to normal and one must search for news of the volcano.
Instead of enjoying a quick visit to London and short cruise on a brand new ship, I’ll be enjoying my tulips in Mentor and will perhaps make a visit to the Geauga Maple Festival.

London bound barring volcano plume

2010-04-19T12:43:00.000-04:00

Volcano willing, I’ll be headed for England on Thursday. Adventure is guaranteed although it might not be quite to my liking.

I’m asking News-Herald readers for their suggestions and input.

A rather minor volcano in the south of Iceland has sent a plume of ash into the world’s busiest air space, grounding hundreds of flights and closing airports in much of Europe, including Heathrow where my flight is headed. It’s been called the biggest disaster for aviation since flying began and is costing billions. One news account said Britain might be facing food shortages this week because its air space has been closed since late last week.

Celebrity Cruise Lines, which is hosting me and dozens of journalists for the preview of a new ship, hasn’t canceled our journey yet.

I’m keeping an eye on Eyjafjallajokull web cams, which have an English version but need no translation. (http://eldgos.mila.is/eyjafjallajokull-fra-thorolfsfelli/)It sends out live video feeds from four cameras surrounding the glacier, which has long been a popular tourist attraction in Iceland.

The explosions of magma through the surface of the glacier are dramatic. Because the lava passes through ice on it’s way toward the earth’s surface it explodes into the sky, sending ash up to 30,000 feet in the air.

The good news is that the plume is now at 10,000 feet, which means that aircraft could conceivably fly above it, but the truth is the airspace over London is closed until at least 1 p.m. Tuesday. (That’s early morning here)
Millions of people are stranded, including thousands at London’s Heathrow Airport, where I am headed. I am also monitoring British websites, www.nats.co.uk and http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/8627253.stm for the latest news.

I originally had intended to ask News-Herald readers for their London suggestions and hidden gems they may have discovered on their own visits. I’ll only be in the city a half-day, but I'm on the lookout for good stories, photos and videos. Those who followed my travel communiques by blog (July-August 2009) know that I usually can cover a lot of territory in a short time.
Now, however, I’m also asking your advice on getting there, including strategies for coping with delays, which will be inevitable. I’ll have my laptop along with me, so should be able to keep readers updated while I am on the road.

I have a feeling I’m about to get a first-hand education on why frequent business travelers are called Road Warriors.

Mentor's National Park: Garfield's home

2010-04-16T10:10:00.000-04:00

A walk through President James A. Garfield's one-time home in Mentor reveals a lot about the the 20th U.S. president and the Victorian era in which he lived.

Some of the items, such as a portrait of Napoleon, might seem odd, but Garfield had no military training and when he was sent to command a regiment in the Civil War he began to study Napoleon. Napoleon became his muse and the portrait still hangs in Garfield's Lawnfield home. More than 80 percent of the house's furnishings were original to the Garfields and were used every day by James, his wife Lucretia, their five children, his mother and her dad, who all lived there.

The Garfield family lived in the home until the 1930s when it was transferred to the Western Reserve Historical Society to be preserved and operated as a museum. In the 1950s, Garfield's grand daughter-in-law, Eleanor Garfield, lived in a house on the property when she was mayor of Mentor. Garfield descendants have remained in the area and willingly share family lore with the National Park Service, who now operates the home. The usual $5 admission will be waived Saturday and Sunday April 17 and 18 and April 24 and 25 as part of National Park Week, so it's a great time to stop in at the home at 8095 Mentor Ave., just east of the the Great Lakes Mall.
The library that Lucretia Garfield had built after her husband’s assassination houses his many books and other things from his life. It became the first presidential library.

A wreath sent by Queen Victoria to Lucretia Garfield when the British monarch learned of the president’s death was sent away for preservation within a week of its receipt, so is now seen in the home’s vault, top center.

The Barge of Venus on the Garfields’ dining room table was on display at the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia when the Garfields visited. It was believed acquired there, possibly by Lucretia Garfield, who’d been a college art major when she met her future husband and appreciated its fine design.

The ground-floor bedroom, where it was cooler, was used as a summer bedroom by the Garfields, who moved upstairs in the winter. As a widow, Lucretia used only the winter bedroom and had this room transformed into a smoking room.

James A. Garfield was very close to his mother, Eliza Ballou Garfield, who was widowed when young James was only 2. She lived with her son and his family at homes in Hiram, Washington, D.C., the White House and Mentor. She was the first presidential mother to be present for her son’s inauguration.

Visitors to Lawnfield often ask interpreters about the spider motif inlaid into this table and found on wallpaper and other furnishings. Spiders and their webs were a symbol for good fortune during the Victorian era.

Chief interpreter Todd Arrington tells how Garfield was a book-loving scholar his entire life and many of his original books are preserved here, in his office, as well as in the home’s library.